Vertical.
Maybe most of you are using Kally vertically.

   
Horizontal
When I sharpen knives on the slack belt, I set it horizontally. I like it because I can see that removing of burr during edge is on the belt. 

But there is one inconvenient thing, replacing the belt is a little cumbersome.

And I think the vertical type is better when using Platen. Because I have to see the edge and belt contact.

Hello Forum.....Its been a while....

When Tormek brought out their new Diamond Wheels, I got the bug again to invest my spare time into Learning, Reading, Researching how to produce Sharp and Keen Edges. 

I am still a beginner. Probably less than 200 knives/scissors under my belt. I can now comfortably take a dull knife, and make it less dull!

I want to do better. But more importantly, I want to quantify my results, so this week I hope to order my PT-50 ( A or B) ( But probably A).

I was also going to get a SJ-250...but after reading many posts here, for less money I can get a bench grinder and Paper Wheels, but feel I need to master the First Grind on my Tormek, before spending another cent ( beyond my PT50).

So here is my question:

What sort of sharpness does a skilled sharpener get right off the Tormek SG-250 and Leather wheel as supplied??? I guess I am looking for a target result to hopefully achieve in the near future...

Yes...I know it depends on the blade, so I am thinking just a commercial grade of stainless kitchen knife (RC 52-54?)

Thank you for your input in advance,

Sam

In reference to the dust collector discussion in this thread about the 12V motor, http://www.bessex.com/forum/showthread.p...28#pid4428, here's what I conjured up to deal with the dust problem with my Kally.

It uses the little Harbor Freight dust collector which motivates 660 CFM air flow through a 4" tube.  There is nothing else connected, so the 660 CFM provides good air flow/suction at the base of the Kally.  It's inexpensive at $159, and since it's HF a 20% off coupon can almost always be found so they can be had for as little as $125.00.

It's been a good little unit.  Knowing HF, I went over it carefully when I got it.  There were  a lot of loose screws and it was sloppily assembled, so I checked and tightened everything and it's been a trooper now for years.

https://www.harborfreight.com/13-gallon-...31810.html

Here it is on my Kally:

         

To make a diffuser, I cobbled together a bucket, some PVC adapters and some dryer vent hose/pipe.   The input/output pipes extend down about about 3" above the bottom of the bucket.  A plastic divider goes between the input/output pipes extending from the bottom of the bucket to a couple of inches from the top.  This causes air flow to start at the bottom, go up over the top of the divider and down again to the bottom of the bucket before proceeding out the output pipe, providing for a lot of air flow for sparks to cool in before exiting the diffuser bucket. 

When grinding something that produces sparks, I just put a couple of inches of water into the bucket.  The extended input pipe blasts the air directly at the surface of the water.

Here's what the inside of the diffuser bucket looks like.  Arrows indicate air flow direction.

   

Hey guys, 
I’ve been thinking about something for awhile now. I’m still fairly new at this sharpening thing, only been doing it for a few years now. I hope this thread doesn’t seem silly to you guys, but here goes. With wet sharpening, there are no sparks, because the steel particles never get hot. In dry sharpening, like I do (I do almost all of my sharpening on a 1X42 Viel), obviously it creates sparks. Sparks are nothing more than superheated bits of metal. I’m very diligent about keeping my fingers on the blade, and dipping the knife in water at the first sign of heat. My question is about the heat creating the sparks. I’m not concerned about the burr, because it’s gets removed. I’m talking about the super fine line that makes up the edge of the edge. Even though the blade never gets hot, is it possible that the edge does? Is it also possible that as the superheated sparks come off the blade, the edge gets superheated as well, only to cool down immediately because of it’s thinness. Could it be that a wet ground edge holds up better? Let me know what you guys think. 

Garry

Tomorrow I'll have to sharpen meat slicer blade sharpening. 

I'll use Viel with freehand. 

But I don't know proper edge angle of it. 

Help me.

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I found out Vadim(KG) was using White spirits and then tried a similar product. But it's odor was not good and is hamful. 

So I'm using ethanol(for disinfection). It's not very good at removing oil base compound but seems to be usable.

How do you remove the compound on the edge?

Hey friends, 
Spoke with Penn State Industries today. My 110 volt motor on my Viel 1X42 burned out the other day. The 12 volt mini lathe motor is out of stock until mid February. I’ve been wanting to upgrade to one of these for awhile now. Now my main belt sander is out of commission. Does anyone know if another supplier sells these motor kits? Or maybe someone has one of these kits that they would sell me? Anyway, let me know if y’all can help. 

Thanks! 
Garry Ordener 
Garry’s Knife Sharpening

Hey guys!
I’m looking to install a 12 volt Penn State motor on my Viel 1X42. I would prefer to use my 6” drive wheel, and bore it out to fit the new motor. Does anyone offer an adapter plate that I can simply bolt on to my Viel frame, and still utilize my 6” pulley? Do they make a 15mm drill bit, or an imperial size that matches? 
Thanks! 
Garry Ordener 
Garry’s Knife Sharpening

I need buffing wheel for knife blade. But there is a lot of materials. Cotton, jean, sisal, felt, etc...

What is the best choice?

And what compound is your recommendation?

Lionsteel are a brand that stand out year-on-year thanks to maintaining a superb level of manufacturing quality over a wide range of knife designs, both fixed and folding. This review takes a look at the Carbon Fibre version of the TM1 folding knife. Like the outstanding SR-1 (which is still going strong eight years after its launch), with its impressive construction using a one-piece handle, the TM1 also uses this single-piece handle design, but instead of an integral lock it uses a more traditional back-lock. I like an integral lock as much as anyone, but I am having just a little too much of them, and find it refreshing that the TM1 uses a back-lock. One main advantage of this is that the handle shape, grip and feel is not compromised by the lock-bar. Still a heavy folder, like the SR-1, but with a very interesting reverse-tanto blade shape, and a handle with two non-metallic material choices - Carbon-Fibre or Micarta. Finding this knife was one of my show highlights from IWA 2018.

(Moderators, there is a reciprocal link at the end of every review on Tactical Reviews.)