Inspired by the classical Navaja knives of Spain, Cold Steel's Espada series are the result of a design collaboration between custom knife maker Andrew Demko and Cold Steel President Lynn C. Thompson, using modern design and materials to bring extreme performance to a range of huge folding knives. In this review we are looking at the largest of all, the Espada XL in the newest G-10 edition.



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Author's Statement for Transparency and Disclosure
The test sample/s featured in this article have been provided for technical testing and review by the manufacturer. Test samples are retained by the reviewer following publication of the completed review for the purposes of long term testing and product comparisons.

All output figures and test results published in this review are the sole work of the reviewer, and are carried out independently and without bias. Test results are reported as found, with no embellishments or alteration. Though best endeavours are made to maintain the accuracy of test equipment, the accuracy of these results is not guaranteed and is subject to the test equipment functioning correctly.
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The Blade and Handle Geometry:

Most knife specifications have a basic description of the blade geometry, but in this section I will be taking a more detailed look at geometry and balance.


Using a set of gauges and precision measuring equipment including a Vernier protractor, callipers, fixed radius gauges and the unique Arc Master adjustable radius gauge (the one that looks like a crossbow).



These measurements have been tabulated and are presented along with a few reference blades (8" Chef's Knife, 5.5" Santoku and the popular Fällkniven F1).

Key aspects such as the primary bevel angle, grind type, blade depth, blade thickness, length, weight are detailed, along with balance information.


The 'Balance relative to the front of the handle' tells you if the knife will feel front heavy, or if the weight is in your hand (a positive value means the weight is forward of the front of the handle). The 'Balance relative to the centre of the handle' indicates how close to a 'neutral balance' the knife has in the hand.



In the case of full convex grinds the approximate centre of the grind is used for the primary bevel angle estimate.


(Wherever you see the 'Read MORE' marker, it indicates that the Extended Version of the review has additional content at that point. Viewing the extended version helps support further reviews, but please ensure you return to this Forum for comments and discussion.)

The blade is made from Carpenter CTS XHP Alloy with DLC Coating.


A few more details:


For such a large knife, the Espada XL G-10 arrives in a relatively compact box.


However, this is because the knife completely fills that box.


In most cases I think it is over the top to put a warning on a knife that is it sharp, but the Espada XL is worthy of extra caution with that huge sweeping belly of the blade eagerly waiting to bite like a ravening dog.


And there we have it, the Espada XL fresh out of the box.


That massive blade has a thin film of oil on it.


It is the oil giving the blade a slightly mottled appearance. As supplied, the clip is fitted for a right-handed person.


The G-10 version is made in Taiwan.


The sweeping clip echoes the lines of the curved handle.


On one side, the pivot bolt is completely plain. You get a hint of the texture on that peeled G-10


Looking in closely at one of the handle bolts the super grippy texture of the peeled G-10 is clear. This surface is created by peeling off one of the layers of G-10 material leaving the pattern of the weave in the surface of the resin. It makes for a super grippy surface.


Blade centring is excellent, especially considering the huge length of this knife.


For the highly stressed areas of the lock and pivot, there are steel liner inserts. At the pivot end these are textured on the edges for grip.


Those steel liners extend beyond the end of the lock bar to spread the forces further into the handle.


An overall view of those steel liners.


Three torx screws hold the clip in place, and the clip fits into a recessed pocket cut into the handle surface.


Ready for left-handed configuration the other side of the handle has the pocket for the clip to fit into. The clip is not moved from one side to the other, only the screws are reused to fit the left-handed pocket clip included in the box.


Getting ready to bite!


Especially considering the length of the blade, the Espada XL's factory edge is extremely keen. You can see this is a toothy edge, but it has been finished well.


The 'eager' edge is topped off with a very acute angled point.


I'm pleased to see a sharpening choil at the base of the plunge line, and that the corners of the plunge line are radiused to reduce stresses.


Complex curves create several grip options along the very long handle.


Of course the Espada XL needs to have a Demko Thumb Plate to make it even more awesome with out-of-pocket-opening.


All the edges of the grip are well rounded so as not to cut into your hand. The first finger grip groove is generously sized with deep finger guard.


Moving to the middle of the handle and a spur provides masses of grip for the front or mid-grip hand positions.




What it is like to use?

Cold Steel describe the Espada series as 'pocket swords' and with the Espada XL this is an apt description, but I'd like to move away from the connotations that has and onto the enthusiasts point of view.

Honestly I can't say the Espada XL is a practical tool, but who cares; it is an awesome giant folding knife!


Actually it is very capable as a slasher for jobs where you would use a machete, so if you want a very expensive folding brush clearing tool that will keep you grinning, look no further. If you happen to have large blocks of material that need deep cuts, it also excels at this (like thick foam rubber for cushions), so you can argue a level of practicality, even if a bit of a reach. But practicality is not what this knife is about; it is an enthusiasts knife.

When you are using it, there are many different grip options. Starting with the primary forward grip for working with the blade for cuts requiring the most strength to be applied.


Let's jump into a short video with some slow motion opening and cutting.




Video Edited with - Cyberlink Director Suite 5 (PowerDirector 16 and AudioDirector 7)
Camera - Panasonic HC-V770 - Microphone - Tonor TN120308BL

This wood chop was not shown in the video, but I wanted to include it to show a cut made into a well seasoned fencing board, that was placed, unsupported, on the ground. The cut was made at a 45 degree angle towards the ground, so the bottom of the board could not move downwards, but nothing held it sideways except the inertia of the board itself. A very deep cut was the result; not all the way through, but impressively deep.


Using the factory edge (with no touch up at all), this lightweight cardboard tube has a very clean-edged slice through it.


The video also showed some size comparisons, but here they are as photos.
In this image we have the Espada XL along with another well known large folder, the Cold Steel Rajah I (the same size as a Rajah II) and a standard size Victorinox pocket knife.


So, the Espada XL is not the largest folding knife I have, the Opinel No. 13 'Le Géant' is, which in terms of pure size does beat the Espada XL, but it is nowhere near as robust.


Along the way with this review, I had reason to open the Espada XL up. This proved to be a very easy job, and allows me to show a few internal details. Once you have the pivot bolt and three handle bolts undone, the handle lifts off easily and initially leaves its steel liner in place. This then lifts off easily too.
With the blade then opened up, you press the lock bar to relieve the pressure on the blade tang and lift the blade off the pivot. The lock bar, once you release the pressure, then lifts off its pivot.
Note that the washers look different here, but that is because each washer is made of two thinner washers, a nylon or teflon (white) washer positioned next to the blade, and a phosphor-bronze washer between the nylon washer and the G-10 handle.




The Espada XL is a GIANT folding knife, and definitely needs consideration if you want to carry it. You'll need a deep pocket (like leg pockets on cargo trousers) and the will to have a mostly impractical blade on you. However the genius of the Espada XL's design is that you CAN carry such a big knife and not be too weighed down by it.


Another point to note is that though the G-10 edition may well be the cheaper version of the Espada XL, actually I've found it to be more usable (if not as beautiful). Mainly this is due to the super grippy handle and the fact there is no polished aluminium to get scuffed up through use. According to Cold Steel, the G-10 edition retains 90% of the strength of the original, and it is slightly lighter (50g or 1.8oz). I really must come back to that grippy handle; no matter how sweaty or wet my hands are there is no lack of grip, unlike the polished handle of the original. This is to such a degree I have considered sanding the handles a bit to take off some of the 'sharpness' in the surface texture, as it can be pretty abrasive. This is definitely something you might want to do under the clip as you will wear away your pocket very fast if you don't.

This knife is just so much KNIFE, you want to find a reason to carry and use it.


Review Summary

The views expressed in this summary table are from the point of view of the reviewer’s personal use. I am not a member of the armed forces and cannot comment on its use beyond a cutting tool or field/hunting knife.

Something that might be a ‘pro’ for one user can be a ‘con’ for another, so the comments are categorised based on my requirements. You should consider all points and if they could be beneficial to you.


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Things I like
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This is a really BIG knife!
Super strong Tri-Ad lock.
Very grippy handle.
Pocket carry is possible despite the size.
Demko Opener allows rapid blade opening..
Extremely 'eager' blade wants to cut everything.
This is a really BIG knife! Enthusiasts will LOVE it.

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What doesn't work so well for me
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This is a really BIG knife! (It is not a mistake putting this in both columns.)
Demko opener 'eats' your pocket.
Handle can be overly abrasive.






(Moderators, there is a reciprocal link at the end of every review on Tactical Reviews.)

When one of our Exchange members does something good we like to crow about it just a little. Thank you to John J.,  a woodworking customer of ours and good friend of John Lucas,  for providing us with notification of John Lucas's achievement  and pictures of his work. John Lucas recently won the People's Choice Award at the Tennessee Association of Woodturners symposium held in Franklin, TN this year. John, his winning piece and the story behind its creation, were also featured in American Woodturner Journal. Congratulations to John Lucas and thanks to John J. for dropping the dime! 

   

And here is the winning piece:

   

John J. does beautiful work as well:

   

More John Lucas:

   

Here is something that John Lucas is well known for, hand mirrors:

   


Absolutely beautiful! Once again, kudos to John Lucas and thank you to all our woodworkers for your participation in the BESS Exchange!

Here's one that we have wondered about for some time; we wonder if it makes a difference, and how much, the direction of the grind. First, should the direction of the grind be consistent throughout the process and second, this sharpening scenario;

Let's say that we have a nice 440C stainless knife and we want to put a micro-bevel on the edge. Let's say that we are using some sort of fine flat stone for this purpose. Does the motion of the knife, relative to the stone, or the stone relative to the knife, such as depicted in, A, B and C make a difference assuming that we are wanting to achieve as thin an apex as possible? 

This may not be able to be answered definitively but we would be interested in your opinions and experiences in the matter. 

   

This is an extension of some discussion from the Why Are Burrs So Malleable thread here:

http://www.bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=104

(01-28-2018, 12:04 PM)Bud Wrote: Thanks Mr. Me2. I just keep on learning. Don't know if you can tell from the picture but I've got more than a 1/32 with this knife. I suppose that's because its probably a thicker knife than yours. To me, Japanese sushi knives are supposed to be super sharp small little thin things. My knife is none of the above. But that's okay with me because it worked just great on some venison tenderloin last night.

Don't mean to bug you but I've seen others talking about this behind the edge before too. So what's the meaning of this? If it's thin or thick behind the edge what difference does it make? I suppose that if I sharpened this knife at a smaller angle that the behind the edge would increase because this knife gets gradually thicker going toward the spine.

Inspired by Mark's comments in the other thread, I decided to start my first thread here.  The following is based on sharpening my 2 Japanese kitchen knives and a knife I made from M2 high speed steel with a hardness of 64.5 to 66 HRc.  In other words, it's based on fairly limited experience. 

First, I really like the quiet complexity of Wa handled Japanese kitchen knives.  It's subtle, and often unrealized until you try to thin an edge or really look closely at the geometry in preparation to sharpen.  These two knives are described below.

Tojiro ITK 120mm Kurouchi Petty - this was my first Japanese Kitchen Knife (JKK).  It has a blade of the prescribed length, with a fairly simple handle of Ho wood and a plastic ferrule.  The blade is the reason for the quiet complexity comment above.  It tapers from tang to tip, from spine to grind line, from grind line to edge bevel, and from edge bevel to apex.  It is laminated with a core steel of Hitachi White #2, with an estimated hardness of 60 to 61 HRc, estimated by the distributor.

Misuzu 165mm Bunka - This was my second, and is currently my most used kitchen knife.  It is less complex, in some ways, but more in others.  It doesn't taper from the spine to the grind line, but has a fairly wide blade grind to a very thin edge.  It's complexity lies in the stainless laminated outer layers over a core of carbon steel I'm not familiar with, but appears similar to O1 or O2, or so I'm told.  The estimated hardness is also 60 to 61. 

Both of these knives had edge bevels between 0.003 and 0.006 inches thick, which is extremely thin by most standards.  Upon receiving them I rebeveled them to 12 degrees per side on my sharpening block guide using a 220 Norton water stone.  Given the thickness, this went pretty quickly.  I've found edge geometry to be way more of an influence on sharpening time than steel type, but you have to have either very good testing procedures for sharpening time or huge differences in geometry to really be able to tell for sure. 

These generally don't see heavy use.  The petty has seen use as a utility knife for various things, but the Bunka has been a dedicated kitchen knife for everything from onions to spaghetti squash.  I say that to say they're generally not too dull when I sharpen them. 

The first thing I do is cut VERY lightly into a medium grit 1000 grit king stone.  Then I do 20 passes per side until I get a burr, which generally only requires one set of passes on each side.  For finishing, I generally use a Spyderco Sharpmaker, with the 15 degree setting, and stop at the Medium stone flat surfaces.  (I rarely use the corners for anything anyway).  This will generally give an edge that will whittle my head hair and cut arm hair above the skin with and against the grain.  Sometimes I finish with a 4000 grit water stone, but that takes more care and time, though I think it potentially gives a sharper edge, limited by how much patience I have at the time.

The third blade mentioned was a Puuko style utility knife with a 10 degree per side bevel ground on with my small belt sander.  The steel was recycled from an industrial hacksaw blade, one of the few I've found that aren't bi-metal.  It was one piece of M2 high speed steel with what I can only describe as excellent heat treatment, with an exceptionally high hardness of 64.5 to 66.  The blade was 1mm thick and 5" long, with a cord wrapped handle.  It has been recycled into a different blade now, which isn't finished.  It was generally sharpened the same as the others above, keeping the bevel to a manageable size by grinding when needed.  I don't recall using the 4000 grit stone on it though.  In spite of it's high hardness, it survived brief use as a throwing knife. 

These three knives did not take kindly to large burrs.  The M2 knife didn't form foil like burrs even on my belt sander, but I also took care to avoid those as well.  The burrs on all three are quite strong, unless over done, and wouldn't come off with stropping.  They generally just scrape up the surface of the leather and remove the compound.  They have to be abraded off with a stone, hence the angle change from 12 to 15 degrees.  Burrs on the M2 knife could be power stropped off with a leather belt on a belt sander with white buffing compound.  I've not tried this on the JKKs. 

Edge holding on the M2 blade was simply the best I've tried; able to hold an edge that would tree top arm hair after cutting 10 yards of cardboard. 

The high hardness keeps burrs to a minimum on all 3 knives.  Burrs are also the opposite of ductile and come off on the stones with relative ease, 5 to 10 passes per side on the Sharpmaker Medium rods.  The extremely thin edges sharpen quickly and don't require power equipment to sharpen in less than 5 minutes.

My battery is dying.  More tomorrow.

I'm new to the BESS Exchange, and currently there is no BESS related content in this review, but this will be added in future reviews.



Extrema Ratio are well known for making knives that are built like a tank; heavy duty fixed blades and folders that will take everything you can throw at them in their stride.
When the new Mamba arrived for testing it was clear this was something quite different; I was struck by how slim this knife is, and by the special sheath with quick release lever locking system - a sheath so slim it is MOLLE compatible because slides directly into the loops of PALS webbing.

(Moderators, there is a reciprocal link at the end of every review on Tactical Reviews.)

Just checking how the BB code I use is interpreted and any limits when posting. Not sure which forum something like this should go into. Currently there is no BESS related content, but this will be added in future reviews.

This is a heavily hacked article to get it posted.

Issue with image count per post. Limited to 10, but this post has 34.
Tables not rendering.
Compound code - center, URL, IMG seems to break, but keeping it to 2 codes seems to work.



Extrema Ratio are well known for making knives that are built like a tank; heavy duty fixed blades and folders that will take everything you can throw at them in their stride.
When the new Mamba arrived for testing it was clear this was something quite different; I was struck by how slim this knife is, and by the special sheath with quick release lever locking system - a sheath so slim it is MOLLE compatible because slides directly into the loops of PALS webbing.

(Moderators, there is a reciprocal link at the end of every review on Tactical Reviews.)

https://youtu.be/Z_VJpgCKf98?t=55s

Check this video. PT50B display 5g when Mike press fulcrum of it. 

Does he push only the fulcrum of PT50B? Or did he press all but only the PT50B display it?

I marked the point to check on the knife. However, even if I check the same point, the score will come out differently. 

295 >>> 265 >>> 290

Of course, I pushed down the knife smoothly. Is there a problem with the accuracy of the PT50B?

I checked on the Penn State Industries website yesterday. The variable speed motors are now back in stock. 

Ken