Mr. Rupert queried, "Will you please help us get started with the Celestron?"
Gladly! More than happy to.
If you could be a bit more specific about what is giving you problems perhaps I could be of better assistance.
For those who don't know, here's what we are talking about. It is what I use for the microscopy images I post.
https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Handhel...B00CMJ1I08
Here a picture of mine, with the Oxo Good Grips knife I used in this thread.
The most significant problem is trying to focus the the thing. The depth of field at max magnification is so narrow the even breathing at it seems to blow the focus. The solution is to get a much sturdier stand than what it comes with.
I got lucky and used a Microlux #83146 Tapping Fixture that I had.
The 16mm rod on it just happened to be the right size to slip the microscope plastic holder over. Micro Mark no longer sells that model of tapping fixture and have replaced it with a different model that I don't think would work.
http://www.micromark.com/Drill-Tap-Holde...ensi-Press
But no problem! It's just a 16 mm rod. Any strong 16 mm rod would do. You could take the one the microscope came with off it's cheap plastic base and bolt it to some heavy, sturdy base. Or just get some other 16 mm rod. It's just bar stock.
Once it's on a good sturdy base, you can focus using the side knobs. Just turn the focus wheel on the scope almost as high as it will go and then focus using the side knobs. I've found that with the focus wheel on the scope turned all the way up, it won't focus. It needs to be backed off just a little. I suspect I need to shave some plastic off the clear ring at the bottom of the scope so that it can get a little closer to the subject being observed in order for the scope to focus adjusted to max magnification.
The vice a Wolfcraft 3410405 Quick Action Vise, 4" Wide. Of course the particular vice is not significant. What is important is that the knife is securely held. Any movement at all with the blade will blow the focus.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wolfcraft-341.../127276203
So, the most important thing is to make everything as sturdy and stable as possible. If you don't do that, focusing is a hair pulling freak show! Once the scope is on a secure, stable stand, just focus using the side knobs, not the focus wheel on the scope. I've found it's about impossible to turn the focus wheel without moving the scope.
Is that what you are asking? Was that helpful? Please let me know if you have more questions.
Oh, if I could respectfully make a suggestion, if you use the BIG reply button when replying to a post, it won't quote the entire previous post in your reply. I've found that especially helpful when responding to big posts with a lot of images like this one.
Mr. Jan, Sadly, I do see some smoothing of the edge using the Tormek compound. I don't disagree that it is "agressive". I wish it were not so, but then would it work?
I would prefer not to use compound at all. I just want to remove burr and NOT smooth the edge. In my testing plain leather, or oiled leather leaves burr, but a little compound seems to remove it.
I don't know at this point if it's the abrasive in the compound that is grinding the burr off, or if the compound is just making the leather more "sticky". I mean, perhaps pine sap would work just as well. A disgusting, sticky mess for sure, but maybe it would work.
Maybe I could use a much finer grit compound and it would work just as well with less smoothing of the edge. The Tormek compound is the finest that I happen to have, so I just used that.
I need to ferret out why the compound is working. Is it actually abrading the burr away or just making the leather more sticky so it's grabbing the burr better.
What do you think?
Gladly! More than happy to.
If you could be a bit more specific about what is giving you problems perhaps I could be of better assistance.For those who don't know, here's what we are talking about. It is what I use for the microscopy images I post.
https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Handhel...B00CMJ1I08
Here a picture of mine, with the Oxo Good Grips knife I used in this thread.
The most significant problem is trying to focus the the thing. The depth of field at max magnification is so narrow the even breathing at it seems to blow the focus. The solution is to get a much sturdier stand than what it comes with.
I got lucky and used a Microlux #83146 Tapping Fixture that I had.
The 16mm rod on it just happened to be the right size to slip the microscope plastic holder over. Micro Mark no longer sells that model of tapping fixture and have replaced it with a different model that I don't think would work.
http://www.micromark.com/Drill-Tap-Holde...ensi-Press
But no problem! It's just a 16 mm rod. Any strong 16 mm rod would do. You could take the one the microscope came with off it's cheap plastic base and bolt it to some heavy, sturdy base. Or just get some other 16 mm rod. It's just bar stock.
Once it's on a good sturdy base, you can focus using the side knobs. Just turn the focus wheel on the scope almost as high as it will go and then focus using the side knobs. I've found that with the focus wheel on the scope turned all the way up, it won't focus. It needs to be backed off just a little. I suspect I need to shave some plastic off the clear ring at the bottom of the scope so that it can get a little closer to the subject being observed in order for the scope to focus adjusted to max magnification.
The vice a Wolfcraft 3410405 Quick Action Vise, 4" Wide. Of course the particular vice is not significant. What is important is that the knife is securely held. Any movement at all with the blade will blow the focus.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wolfcraft-341.../127276203
So, the most important thing is to make everything as sturdy and stable as possible. If you don't do that, focusing is a hair pulling freak show! Once the scope is on a secure, stable stand, just focus using the side knobs, not the focus wheel on the scope. I've found it's about impossible to turn the focus wheel without moving the scope.
Is that what you are asking? Was that helpful? Please let me know if you have more questions.
Oh, if I could respectfully make a suggestion, if you use the BIG reply button when replying to a post, it won't quote the entire previous post in your reply. I've found that especially helpful when responding to big posts with a lot of images like this one.
(05-28-2017, 07:25 AM)Jan Wrote: Some knife sharpeners in this country consider the Tormek pasta as an aggressive honing compound despite its small grit size.
Mr. Jan, Sadly, I do see some smoothing of the edge using the Tormek compound. I don't disagree that it is "agressive". I wish it were not so, but then would it work?
I would prefer not to use compound at all. I just want to remove burr and NOT smooth the edge. In my testing plain leather, or oiled leather leaves burr, but a little compound seems to remove it.
I don't know at this point if it's the abrasive in the compound that is grinding the burr off, or if the compound is just making the leather more "sticky". I mean, perhaps pine sap would work just as well. A disgusting, sticky mess for sure, but maybe it would work.
Maybe I could use a much finer grit compound and it would work just as well with less smoothing of the edge. The Tormek compound is the finest that I happen to have, so I just used that.
I need to ferret out why the compound is working. Is it actually abrading the burr away or just making the leather more sticky so it's grabbing the burr better.
What do you think?