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Deburring - Printable Version +- The BESS Exchange is sponsored by Edge On Up (http://bessex.com/forum) +-- Forum: BESS Forums (http://bessex.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=1) +--- Forum: Edge Sharpness Testing (http://bessex.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?fid=10) +--- Thread: Deburring (/showthread.php?tid=94) Pages:
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Deburring - grepper - 05-27-2017 I was doing some experimenting with different materials for deburring. I wanted to try hard materials just to see the effect of something that would be strong enough to definitely bend the burr. Then I wondered what a plain piece of leather would do. When I say, "strop", I mean do a one pass strop one side of the blade turn it over and do the other. That would be 1 strop. 5 strops would be doing that 5 times. Here's what happened: I started with this Oxo Good Grips blade sharpened on the Kally @ 180 grit. This is the burr. It is a fine burr. The black line is marking pen. ![]() I decided to try a hard plastic cutting board on the theory that it would be strong enough to bend the burr but not damage the steel. The dent in the burr is where I took a sharpness reading. This is what happened after 10 strops on the hard plastic. Yes, the burr had actually fractured and broken off in some places but I was not getting anywhere very fast. The burr was just bending back and forth and back and forth... ![]() So then I tried the smooth side of a clean leather strop with the hope that the leather would bend around the edge of the blade and do a better job of grabbing the burr. First I did 10 strops and there was still a lot of burr. Then I did 10 more strops. The dark/light image below is the same image, just with side and top lighting. Here's the result after the 20 strops on plain leather. Much better, but still a lot of burr and it was a bunch of work to get to this point. It also seemed that getting that last bit of burr was going to be a very slow process indeed. Some of that little tiny burr directly above the edge is very difficult to get to. You can see it in the light picture below as little shiny mountains right on top of the edge. That is burr. ![]() Getting tired of messing around, I did 5 strops on the Kally using the rough side of a leather belt with just a touch of Tormek 1-3 micron compound that was left over from a previous sharpening. Final sharpness was 200g. ![]() So, that was yet another experiment. Take from it what you will. Hope you found it as interesting and entertaining as I did. (I have a low interest/entertainment threshold).
RE: Deburring - Rupert Lucius - 05-27-2017 (05-27-2017, 10:11 PM)grepper Wrote: I was doing some experimenting with different materials for deburring. I wanted to try hard materials just to see the effect of something that would be strong enough to definitely bend the burr. Then I wondered what a plain piece of leather would do.Excellent - was this on the platen or off the platen? Your photography is the best Leather with Tormek paste is impressive - I am a sold. You set the bar for my son Henry and his Celestron UBS. Thanks Rupert RE: Deburring - grepper - 05-27-2017 That was about 2" above the platen, with just a very small bit of compound left over from some other sharpening. What I have found is that plain leather just won't do it very well, but just a tiny little bit of compound makes the difference. I've tried plain leather and plain leather with only oil on it and that did not work. So, even though I don't understand exactly why yet, just a little abrasive makes the difference. I only use a very small amount of compound very infrequently applied and a very fine grit because all I'm looking for is burr removal. I don't want to polish the edge at all if I can help it. I don't want to damage the nice toothy edge by abrading it away. Just remove burr and only remove burr. For that reason I hate using compound, but at least with my testing so far, it seems to make the difference. That tiny bit of very fine abrasive must be grinding the burr off. At least that is what I am guessing at this point. I'm still not sure, but at this point is seems like a logical assumption. Oh, yea, you bought your son the Celestron! Well, how about some images Mr. Rupert!
RE: Deburring - Jan - 05-28-2017 Very interesting experiment, Mr. Grepper, thanks for sharing it with us. Some knife sharpeners in this country consider the Tormek pasta as an aggressive honing compound despite its small grit size. RE: Deburring - Rupert Lucius - 05-28-2017 (05-27-2017, 11:32 PM)grepper Wrote: That was about 2" above the platen, with just a very small bit of compound left over from some other sharpening. What I have found is that plain leather just won't do it very well, but just a tiny little bit of compound makes the difference.Sir Will you please help us get started with the Celestron? Maybe I am asking for a overview photo of your vise or etc. In reference to your excellent photography, excellent and so very descriptive. Rupert RE: Deburring - grepper - 05-28-2017 Mr. Rupert queried, "Will you please help us get started with the Celestron?" Gladly! More than happy to. If you could be a bit more specific about what is giving you problems perhaps I could be of better assistance.For those who don't know, here's what we are talking about. It is what I use for the microscopy images I post. https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Handheld-Digital-Microscope-Pro/dp/B00CMJ1I08 [attachment=205] Here a picture of mine, with the Oxo Good Grips knife I used in this thread. [attachment=206] [attachment=208] The most significant problem is trying to focus the the thing. The depth of field at max magnification is so narrow the even breathing at it seems to blow the focus. The solution is to get a much sturdier stand than what it comes with. I got lucky and used a Microlux #83146 Tapping Fixture that I had. [attachment=207] The 16mm rod on it just happened to be the right size to slip the microscope plastic holder over. Micro Mark no longer sells that model of tapping fixture and have replaced it with a different model that I don't think would work. http://www.micromark.com/Drill-Tap-Holder-for-Press-It-Sensi-Press But no problem! It's just a 16 mm rod. Any strong 16 mm rod would do. You could take the one the microscope came with off it's cheap plastic base and bolt it to some heavy, sturdy base. Or just get some other 16 mm rod. It's just bar stock. Once it's on a good sturdy base, you can focus using the side knobs. Just turn the focus wheel on the scope almost as high as it will go and then focus using the side knobs. I've found that with the focus wheel on the scope turned all the way up, it won't focus. It needs to be backed off just a little. I suspect I need to shave some plastic off the clear ring at the bottom of the scope so that it can get a little closer to the subject being observed in order for the scope to focus adjusted to max magnification. The vice a Wolfcraft 3410405 Quick Action Vise, 4" Wide. Of course the particular vice is not significant. What is important is that the knife is securely held. Any movement at all with the blade will blow the focus. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Wolfcraft-3410405-Quick-Action-Vise-4-Wide/127276203 So, the most important thing is to make everything as sturdy and stable as possible. If you don't do that, focusing is a hair pulling freak show! Once the scope is on a secure, stable stand, just focus using the side knobs, not the focus wheel on the scope. I've found it's about impossible to turn the focus wheel without moving the scope. Is that what you are asking? Was that helpful? Please let me know if you have more questions. Oh, if I could respectfully make a suggestion, if you use the BIG reply button when replying to a post, it won't quote the entire previous post in your reply. I've found that especially helpful when responding to big posts with a lot of images like this one. ![]() [attachment=209] (05-28-2017, 07:25 AM)Jan Wrote: Some knife sharpeners in this country consider the Tormek pasta as an aggressive honing compound despite its small grit size. Mr. Jan, Sadly, I do see some smoothing of the edge using the Tormek compound. I don't disagree that it is "agressive". I wish it were not so, but then would it work? I would prefer not to use compound at all. I just want to remove burr and NOT smooth the edge. In my testing plain leather, or oiled leather leaves burr, but a little compound seems to remove it. I don't know at this point if it's the abrasive in the compound that is grinding the burr off, or if the compound is just making the leather more "sticky". I mean, perhaps pine sap would work just as well. A disgusting, sticky mess for sure, but maybe it would work. Maybe I could use a much finer grit compound and it would work just as well with less smoothing of the edge. The Tormek compound is the finest that I happen to have, so I just used that. I need to ferret out why the compound is working. Is it actually abrading the burr away or just making the leather more sticky so it's grabbing the burr better. What do you think? RE: Deburring - Jan - 05-28-2017 Mr. Grepper, in my opinion, after fresh application of the honing compound to the leather honing wheel its abrasive function is dominant. Later, after honing some 10 knifes, when the honing compound is consumed, the honing wheel becomes more and more sticky. In both stages the honing wheel removes the burr. In my understanding a very sticky honing wheel may cause edge burnishing which means some tiny movement of steel near apex. The result of burnishing is surface smoothing without metal removal. RE: Deburring - grepper - 05-28-2017 Thanks Mr. Jan. So I guess the abrasive abrades away the burr. "burnishing...surface smoothing without metal removal." Ick! That sounds bad. However, could that "tiny movement of steel near apex" cause thinning of the already very thin burr material causing it to tear off? That seems a bit of a stretch (pun intended) and to me abrasion makes more sense. If I were to proceed on that assumption, then I guess what I need to do is to find the finest abrasive possible to remove burr with a minimal amount of surface smoothing. I wonder just how fine an abrasive would work. RE: Deburring - Jan - 05-29-2017 Yes Mr. Grepper, you are correct, abrasion is the classical concept. I have mentioned burnishing as my working hypothesis for explanation of some burr/edge behaviour. This concept is not common in knife sharpeners community. I have read about it on some straight razor forum, where it was documented how this process (plastic flow) can heel some minor defects of the edge. I think it is intuitively well understandable. The answer to your question: “However, could that "tiny movement of steel near apex" cause thinning of the already very thin burr material causing it to tear off?” is yes. I'm not trying to convince you nor change your thinking. Please feel free to avoid this term if it irritates you. If it is a viable concept, it will emerge again, and if it is not it will be forgotten.
RE: Deburring - grepper - 05-31-2017 (05-28-2017, 08:22 AM)Rupert Lucius Wrote: Sir Mr. Rupert, Forgot to ask. Was my post on getting started with the Celestron helpful? Did it answer your questions? |