Mr. Sharpco, I could always be mistaken about what I see in you images. The first image in your post looks like the first image in the post I linked to. That image still has the flimsy part of the burr.
The second image in your post looks like the second image in the post I linked to. The second image was after the flimsy part of the burr was removed leaving only the LOW.
I don't know how much deburring you did before you pressed the edge against the block. If you had already removed the flimsy top part of the burr and only the LOW remained, then it might not get bashed in when pushed against the block.
If you read the post I linked to through to the end of the thread, there a several good suggestions on how to remove the LOW or wire edge or whatever you wish to call it. This is where you are going to have to experiment, use your microscope and find a method of burr removal that works for you.
Use the tip of an Exacto knife and push up against the bottom of the LOW and watch it get pushed off the bevel. Understand what that means. Drag the blade, edge trailing against various surfaces like sandpaper, stones, Scotch-Brite, leather, wood, plastic, fine abrasives and compounds etc. and examine what effect that has under your microscope. That's exactly what I did.
You deserve congratulations because you are now advancing into the finer points of sharpening. Once you have advanced to this point, getting a full understanding deburring is going to take time, effort and experimenting on your part. But, if you are serious about learning this stuff, the time spent and knowledge you will gain will be worth it!
Folks babble endlessly about deburring in forums, but seemingly few seem to fully understand the issues and what is happening at the edge. Understand what LOW is and how it is stuck to the edge. Understand the difference between prying or scraping it off the edge and grinding it off using fine abrasives. Learn how those two methods effect a toothy edge. Use your microscope and edge tester and learn. It is only by doing the work, experimenting, using your instruments and spending the time to do so that you will truly understand for yourself what all this means. Then you will really know and be able to prove it. That's a lot different than taking somebody's word for it.
The second image in your post looks like the second image in the post I linked to. The second image was after the flimsy part of the burr was removed leaving only the LOW.
I don't know how much deburring you did before you pressed the edge against the block. If you had already removed the flimsy top part of the burr and only the LOW remained, then it might not get bashed in when pushed against the block.
If you read the post I linked to through to the end of the thread, there a several good suggestions on how to remove the LOW or wire edge or whatever you wish to call it. This is where you are going to have to experiment, use your microscope and find a method of burr removal that works for you.
Use the tip of an Exacto knife and push up against the bottom of the LOW and watch it get pushed off the bevel. Understand what that means. Drag the blade, edge trailing against various surfaces like sandpaper, stones, Scotch-Brite, leather, wood, plastic, fine abrasives and compounds etc. and examine what effect that has under your microscope. That's exactly what I did.
You deserve congratulations because you are now advancing into the finer points of sharpening. Once you have advanced to this point, getting a full understanding deburring is going to take time, effort and experimenting on your part. But, if you are serious about learning this stuff, the time spent and knowledge you will gain will be worth it!
Folks babble endlessly about deburring in forums, but seemingly few seem to fully understand the issues and what is happening at the edge. Understand what LOW is and how it is stuck to the edge. Understand the difference between prying or scraping it off the edge and grinding it off using fine abrasives. Learn how those two methods effect a toothy edge. Use your microscope and edge tester and learn. It is only by doing the work, experimenting, using your instruments and spending the time to do so that you will truly understand for yourself what all this means. Then you will really know and be able to prove it. That's a lot different than taking somebody's word for it.