Burr Free Sharpening Technique

[jasonstone20]

jasonstone,

  Thanks for the thoughtful and detailed explanation, I will incorporate that into my practice sessions.  I think your advice, as with most of the sound advice I hear, is to practice, and with practice will come success.  I've heard Cliff claim that anyone can learn this method in a very short time (don't remember for sure, but I think it was denominated in minutes); I've also read where someone mastered it in a year.  For you it was a week.  For me, it's not been dedicated practice, but I did buy a cheap paring knife to practice with, and once every week or so I'll give it a spin, so maybe in six months or a year I'll be wondering why it was so hard to figure out. 

  So, one question: are you applying the microbevel with the same stone you shaped with?  Actually, a second question: are you also back-bevelling with the same stone.  It sounds like you are; I've done it both with the same and with a finer stone (which is what I think you're referring to as Plateau Sharpening) - which points out one of my significant flaws in practicing (i.e., that I usually try something different each time I practice, which maybe means I shouldn't be calling it "practice").

  Thanks again for the tips, I'll be playing with those.

  Steve

SteveG,
I think Cliff was talking about people learning when taught in person.  Once you figure it out, it is really simple, just a little nuanced.  I don't always use the burr-free technique, but I have incorporated a few of it's techniques into my sharpening, and it is especially useful for when I am having difficulties.  I just find it doesn't take as much of my energy and concentration to just sharpen to a burr and remove it on the strop.  

As far as the micro-bevel, you want to apply it with the stone that has the desired apex finish.  Same with the back-beveling. For example, using DMT diamond hones, you shape on the C, refine the scratch pattern (just sharpening on the edge bevel, alternating edge leading passes),  with the F, and refine the scratch pattern with the EF, then micro-bevel and back-bevel with the EF.

Good point, there's nothing like a little one-on-one with someone who's mastered a skill.

Thanks for the additional details.  One other question: what angle(s) are you typically sharpening at?

As low as I can go, usually 10-15 degrees per side.

That's what I figured.  Between that and your comment that you can you can feel when the burr just starts to form, I can tell that you're a level or 2 or 3 above where I am, but I'll keep working on it.  Thanks again for all of the input.

Thank you for the kind words.  Freehand sharpening is something that just takes doing it to understand what's going on, and when stuff starts to click and you get what people have been talking about is very rewarding.  Definitely worth the effort.  If you have any questions or issues that come up, please ask.  I have found that in life you can learn a lot more by passing on knowledge, rather than just a constant stream of input of information. Plus I enjoy talking about this type of stuff.   I think I have got the sharp part down somewhat, now I need to work on getting pretty edges along with sharp.  My email is jasonstone20@yahoo.com and I am pretty active on Cliff Stamps forum.