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Strop with waterbase PDP/CBN emulsion
#1
I use power tools for sharpening, but I don't throw strop away because it's good to touch up. 

Recently I bought JENDE 4 & 0.5 micron PDP emulsion that is waterbase. And I have sharpeningsupplies paddle strop.(https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/12-XL...-P314.aspx

I guess the smooth side(very similar with smooth side of Surgi-sharp leather belt) is better than suede side for waterbase emulsion. Has anyone tried it? I applied 4 micron PDP emulsion to smooth side of Surgi-sharp leather belt to remove burr but it doesn't work properly. 


   
Smooth side, 

   
Suede side.
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#2
I have a similar problem with my Tormek SB-250 blackstone. I purchased it eight years ago, and I have never been able to get it to cut well. It glazes quickly for me. I found the stone grader ineffective with it and got tired of using the truing tool too frequently to refresh the cutting edge. It is now in the box, where it has been most of the last eight years.

Is my stone defective? I do not think so. Several sharpeners I know and respect have successfully used their blackstones enough to wear them out, some have worn out several. I have concluded that my problem with the blackstone is most probably my lack of skill using it. In my defense, while Tormek has done an outstanding job of explaining how to use the standard issue SG grinding wheels in the handbook, the blackstone is barely mentioned. It shares only two brief paragraphs with the SJ 4000 grit Japanese grinding wheel. I have happily used the SG since 2009. Someday, when I have a lot of spare time, I will spent some quiet time working through my difficulties with the SB.

One positive side effect of this frustration is that it forced me to become very proficient with the truing tool, a skill which has proved useful. Working through your frustration with leather strops may cause you to become proficient with a USB microscope. With patience and diligence, I mastered the truing tool. With the same patience and diligence, you will master the strop. That skill will serve you well.

Enjoy the journey.

Ken
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#3
Outstanding Ken! You really nailed it Smile

Please allow me to put some perspective on using the rough side of the leather.

Think how large a 4µ diamond is. If it were on a hard surface it could possibly put a 4,000 grit deep scratch in your steel.

On a soft surface? You could probably soak up a whole bottle of compound on the rough side of a belt. Almost all of the grit will be below the surface of the leather, and will probably never be able to touch steel. 

The best leather hones are very firm, with an almost sealed surface, or super thin, and glued to glass, for a reason.





Oh yeah, I got some positive feedback on my newly re-manufactured shoulder. Cleared for light armchair duty. Maybe one post/day. Wink
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#4
"Oh yeah, I got some positive feedback on my newly re-manufactured shoulder."

Great to have you back Mr. Mark!  Your presence has been missed. 

Just curious, what RHC did you temper your new parts to?  Wink
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#5
Hello Ken, 

Can you tell me what skills you have learned about truing tool?
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#6
After hearing you, I'm sure I have to put it on the smooth side.
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#7
(09-15-2018, 05:49 AM)SHARPCO Wrote: Hello Ken, 

Can you tell me what skills you have learned about truing tool?

Hello, Sharpco.

I believe I had the same misconception about the truing tool and "precious Tormek grinding wheel" shared by many newer Tormek users. I was reluctant to use the truing tool for two reasons: First, I was not comfortable using it. Second, I did not want to wear out "my precious Tormek grinding wheel".

I have since realized that the Tormek grinding wheels are like brake parts or tires on a vehicle. They are long term consumable items designed to wear out and eventually be replaced after long service. 

My learning experience was reshaping a turning skew and gouge with the SB blackstone. The SB kept glazing. The stone grader did not fix the problem for me. I could easily have done the work using my Norton 3X 46 or 80 grit wheel on the Tormek, however, I was determined to see the job through with the SB. The only choice left was to use the TT-50 truing tool to dress the wheel. I had to keep doing this enough that I left a second support bar set up with the truing tool pre set.

This was unsatisfactory, however, it forced me to become comfortable with the truing tool. From that experience, I have developed the work habit of using the truing tool frequently with very light cuts. By light, I mean starting with only touching the high spots on the wheel and lowering the cutter half a microadjust number with each pass. Once a light pass touches the entire wheel surface I stop. No extra pass "for good measure". This insures that my grinding wheel is cutting at full efficiency. It is like rotating your vehicle tires to minimize wear.

I can take deeper cuts. I ended up doing that with the SB. For everyday work, several light passes just suits me better. I encourage all Tormek users to become comfortable with the truing tool.

Ken
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#8
“Oh yeah, I got some positive feedback on my newly re-manufactured shoulder. Cleared for light armchair duty. Maybe one post/day.”

Hey, amigo. I trust you are well on the mend. I will offer the same suggestion to you that I made to Rupert. There are programs which allow you to speak into your computer and output typed messages. They are good for those of us whose brains work faster than our fingers. Smile

Glad you are still with us. Very good strop thoughts, too.

Ken
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#9
It's good idea, Ken. 

When I use SB stone, I did as you did.
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#10
Thanks for the kind words, friends. Smile

Mr. Grepper, Mother Nature is cruel. After age 21, virtually all parts get tempered back on a daily basis. I'm running about RHC oatmeal now.
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