Powered Sharpener Setup Recommendations

[Mike Brubacher]

I'm going to back into this conversation because Grepper is the horse's mouth and I must be the other end. Yes there is a platen in Grepper's angle guide.
Here's a couple of pictures and in the words of Mr. Miyagi of the Karate Kid; Belt on - Belt off. Then I'll shut up and let the horse who speaks from the appropriate end, step up.

                                                                              

[grepper]

Personally, I never sharpen knives against the platen.  Instead, I sharpen 1” above the platen on the open belt.  Sharpening against the platen seems to be far more aggressive.  It may just be my lack of skill, but I get a much more even and smooth bevel with the tiny amount of give or cushion in the belt that happens just off the platen.  At only 1” off platen the belt is still very stiff, but the feel when sharpening and the bevel produced is surprisingly different than on platen sharpening.  I save the platen for things like grinding the head off bolts and other tasks where far more pressure is required.  

I call the new adjustable knife rest the Kallyrest.  Except for the platen, it is made entirely from 6061 aluminum.  The platen is stainless steel, 2.5” tall and 1” wide with square sides.  The Kallyrest can be configured to sharpen 1” above the platen on the open belt (recommended), or against the platen.  The entire rest assembly can be quickly removed with one thumbscrew to provide open access to the platen.  The Kallyrest can be positioned anywhere on the mast, high or low, to accommodate your sharpening style.  Additionally, it is 7 way adjustable for perfect belt/platen alignment even on machines with bent masts.  

Here are two images.  The first with the Kallyrest configured for above platen sharpening (recommend), the second for on platen.  

       

Hopefully it will be fully available in the next several months.  I can make them now, but lacking proper packaging, laminated gauge graduation stickers (I use a paper one), and other such details.  If you have questions about how it works, feel free to post them here.  If you have questions about purchasing or are anxious to get your hands on one, please PM me.

[blgentry]

Interesting about "no platen sharpening". I've been trying to avoid highly convexed edges like I get from my WSKO. But that's a 3/4" belt that's not tensioned very tightly. So it tends to really wrap around the blade with even moderate pressure. As a result I've got a few pocket knives with slightly ugly bevels that are indistinct. Meaning that the belt wrap effect went *up* the blade so my bevel line isn't neat and clean and sharp. Rather it's fuzzy due to the belt wrap.

Maybe the 1x42 is tensioned way tighter and/or moves faster so I can use really light pressure and still get a nice sharp bevel line.

BTW, the medium scotchbrite belt is pretty awesome for cleaning and polishing. I recently found some cheap terrible "boot knives" I bought in the late 80s. Pakastani stuff, so it's terrible steel and below average workmanship. I think I paid $1 for them on some sale. Both were rusty in their leather sheaths with green stained guards (brass). I was just going to throw them away, but decided to scotchbrite them up instead. I'm quite impressed with how much crud the scotchbrite belt can remove in little time. The brass came out really nice! It's got that bright freshly machined look to it. The scratches are what you would expect. They look like they belong.

The blades are pitted, in some cases fairly deeply. They've been rusting away for about 30 years now, so go figure. But all the rust is gone and they are much cleaner and nicer. I've started regridning the face of one of the blades to take out the pitting. Of course this is my first time grinding a blade and I went *right* over the line in the center of the blade and flattened it out in two spots. Oops. Good thing these are throwaway blades. I'll have to see what I can get done with the Trizact A160 on these. Just for fun.

Though I should probably be actually sharpening some blades too. Gotta find some love value volunteers. Maybe a trip to Goodwill is in order today.

Brian.

[grepper]

Sharpening just off platen on the Kally does produce a very slightly convex edge.  It all depends on the weight of the belt and how much pressure is used.  With light to medium pressure and a moderate weight like YF backed belt the amount of convex is extremely minimal and produces a beautiful even bevel.  For me at least, as I have mentioned before, I use very light pressure and there is almost no belt deflection.  A Kally is very different than a WSKO.

I think that satin finish from a metal conditioning belt is beautiful.  You are right they are excellent belts for rust removal.  It’s fun to experiment with the different grits and enjoy the variation in finish produced.  

Another cool way to remove rust in every little crack and crevice is electrolysis.  Check out this thread.  There examples showing how effective it is and how to do it.  Hey kids, it’s easy, fun, inexpensive and super effective.  
http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...=electroly
I explain how here:
http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...587#pid587

I’ve found some great deals at the local Salvation Army store.  $30.00 knives for $1.50.  Most of their knives are cheap crap but every so often you get lucky.  Even the cheap crap is great for practice.  That’s what I use when I wonder what it would be like to sharpen with a 40 grit belt.

[blgentry]

I'm still slowly learning with this machine. I found a 5" Calphalon Santoku at GoodWill last week and have put a decent edge on it. ...and an 8" Farberware carving or utility knife that I put a pretty good edge on too. I'm going to redo both of them, probably several times to do some experiments. I'm curious what a 10 to 12 degree edge on the Santoku will do.

I've also done a bunch of grinding on an old machete and those old knives I mentioned. All of which generated piles of metal dust. Which makes me wonder about using a respirator.

Does anyone use a respirator with their sander? I'm thinking a half mask with replaceable filters.

Brian.

[eddosedge]

Brian,

I use the respirator with replaceable filters and face guard below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013SI...UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO...UTF8&psc=1

Ed K.

[blgentry]

I've ordered the respirator and a slightly different face shield. Thanks for the recommendation. The respirator gets a ton of good reviews. Hoping it's comfortable to wear. I really don't want metal dust in my lungs.

Brian.

[grepper]

I made a dust collector contraption for the Kally.  It works great in sucking up anything produced while grinding.  Here is a post describing it:

http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...34#pid4434

[MaxtheKnife]

I've ordered the respirator and a slightly different face shield.  Thanks for the recommendation.  The respirator gets a ton of good reviews.  Hoping it's comfortable to wear.  I really don't want metal dust in my lungs.

Brian.

i use similar, but from 3M .......90% of the time i use paper mask from 3m.....N95's

but what i use a lot are rectangular earth magnetics.........man oh man they collect iron ........they get big and fat FAST TOO.

At times i work inside williams & sonoma store..........i buy magnetic 8 x 10 sheets in a pack from office depot and lay them out all around the table as well.
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[MaxtheKnife]

I made a dust collector contraption for the Kally.  It works great in sucking up anything produced while grinding.  Here is a post describing it:

http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...34#pid4434

i am not good at making things so i must buy already made items............this is one i want but yet do not have.  i do have 2 buddies that have them and they lovem...............maybe one day soon for me....fyi
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