06-16-2017, 05:00 AM
Last night I completed the wooden housing and reassembled my Viel belt grinder. I still have numerous ideas to incorporate into it, however, all of my initial goals have been completed. It now has a variable speed, reversible motor. The motor control is mounted securely and does not interfere with laying the unit flat on either side.
The wooden housing, made of 12mm Baltic birch plywood, is designed to be easily removable by removing four machine screws. When I am satisfied that all the add ons are working, I will paint it red to match the Viel. For day to day moving and heavier use, I think Max' choice of plate aluminum is a more solid choice, although I suspect bbp would hold up well, also. In my case, my metalworking skills are very limited, and I had the bbp in the shop. For those of you who are unfamiliar with bbp, it has many more plies than regular plywood, and no voids. I like it.
The cross piece, also bbp, holds the motor control and helps support the housing. Both sides are held in place with 1/8" deep dados which I laid out and chiseled out. I used no glue, but chose to add two #6 x 1 1/2" wood screws on each side. The unit is completely disassemblable. The control unit sits on a 6mm thick ledger board and is attached with two electrical plastic ties joined in series for more length. The seven inch height allows the speed knob on top and the reversing switch on the bottom to be fully protected.The cross piece is five inches high, allowing a two inch opening on the bottom. It is flush with the two side pieces on the top. This allows secure on board storage for both the motor to control and the AC to control cords.
Both side pieces required fitting to allow for the frame bend radius, corner weld, four foot screws, and clearing the motor bracket. The bandsaw made quick work of this, although a coping saw or saber saw would also do the job. A file or sanding block could create the radius. I set the bandsaw table at 45° and nibbled away. Fitting was not difficult.
Four holes for the flat head bolts were drilled and countersunk in the metal frame. Using flat heads instead of regular hex bolts allow the unit to lay flat on either side hor horizontal belt position. A drill press helps, although I drilled the holes in steps, starting with smaller bits in a battery drill. I drilled the countersink with the drill press. Two small C clamps held the wooden parts in place against the frame during construction.
I will provide a link to more details and photos when I am further along.
Thanks to the forum members who have so generously helped me with this project. Your guidaance and experience has been and continues to be invaluable.
Ken
The wooden housing, made of 12mm Baltic birch plywood, is designed to be easily removable by removing four machine screws. When I am satisfied that all the add ons are working, I will paint it red to match the Viel. For day to day moving and heavier use, I think Max' choice of plate aluminum is a more solid choice, although I suspect bbp would hold up well, also. In my case, my metalworking skills are very limited, and I had the bbp in the shop. For those of you who are unfamiliar with bbp, it has many more plies than regular plywood, and no voids. I like it.
The cross piece, also bbp, holds the motor control and helps support the housing. Both sides are held in place with 1/8" deep dados which I laid out and chiseled out. I used no glue, but chose to add two #6 x 1 1/2" wood screws on each side. The unit is completely disassemblable. The control unit sits on a 6mm thick ledger board and is attached with two electrical plastic ties joined in series for more length. The seven inch height allows the speed knob on top and the reversing switch on the bottom to be fully protected.The cross piece is five inches high, allowing a two inch opening on the bottom. It is flush with the two side pieces on the top. This allows secure on board storage for both the motor to control and the AC to control cords.
Both side pieces required fitting to allow for the frame bend radius, corner weld, four foot screws, and clearing the motor bracket. The bandsaw made quick work of this, although a coping saw or saber saw would also do the job. A file or sanding block could create the radius. I set the bandsaw table at 45° and nibbled away. Fitting was not difficult.
Four holes for the flat head bolts were drilled and countersunk in the metal frame. Using flat heads instead of regular hex bolts allow the unit to lay flat on either side hor horizontal belt position. A drill press helps, although I drilled the holes in steps, starting with smaller bits in a battery drill. I drilled the countersink with the drill press. Two small C clamps held the wooden parts in place against the frame during construction.
I will provide a link to more details and photos when I am further along.
Thanks to the forum members who have so generously helped me with this project. Your guidaance and experience has been and continues to be invaluable.
Ken