05-25-2017, 09:31 PM
This is a subject that I've given a lot of thought in the past few years.
I worked with my step dad building hand hewn log homes using a broad axe, slick, chisels, etc., learning the value of a sharp tool. He taught me his way of using Japanese wet stones. He and I both had finer grits but agreed that 10k was generally where we both stopped. One very dissapointing thing in this era was spending a lunch break to, "just hone" the broad as a bit to take one swing and realize it's worse than before!
After the log cabin days I worked in food service for 12 years and always had the sharpest knife in the kitchen. My thick western chefs knife cut a tomatoe better than a new serrated knife.
So when I started my sharpening business I polished every bevel I sharpened until a couple years ago I tested the toothy theory at a butcher shop that I sharpen for, (national award winners) and found that the toothy edge they use with their boning, filet, and scimitars, (breaking knife) in there world, cut better initially and held its edge longer. Afterwards I continued to give every knife a nice polished edge and would separate the knives that where red meat or fish specific knives. Now for the past several months I've been trying less and less grit for all non fish knives, rather it be push or pull cut. The only thing I'm seeing so far is that it takes me less time to sharpen! Today I went with the lowest grit I've ever tried with a worn 120 belt and strop. My thought has been that with enough light you can see the edge being sharpened and not just the burr. A bright light will show the cloudiness of an edge that hasn't yet found its finest point. I still have a ton of questions and have budgeted a bess tester to answer many of the soon
I worked with my step dad building hand hewn log homes using a broad axe, slick, chisels, etc., learning the value of a sharp tool. He taught me his way of using Japanese wet stones. He and I both had finer grits but agreed that 10k was generally where we both stopped. One very dissapointing thing in this era was spending a lunch break to, "just hone" the broad as a bit to take one swing and realize it's worse than before!
After the log cabin days I worked in food service for 12 years and always had the sharpest knife in the kitchen. My thick western chefs knife cut a tomatoe better than a new serrated knife.
So when I started my sharpening business I polished every bevel I sharpened until a couple years ago I tested the toothy theory at a butcher shop that I sharpen for, (national award winners) and found that the toothy edge they use with their boning, filet, and scimitars, (breaking knife) in there world, cut better initially and held its edge longer. Afterwards I continued to give every knife a nice polished edge and would separate the knives that where red meat or fish specific knives. Now for the past several months I've been trying less and less grit for all non fish knives, rather it be push or pull cut. The only thing I'm seeing so far is that it takes me less time to sharpen! Today I went with the lowest grit I've ever tried with a worn 120 belt and strop. My thought has been that with enough light you can see the edge being sharpened and not just the burr. A bright light will show the cloudiness of an edge that hasn't yet found its finest point. I still have a ton of questions and have budgeted a bess tester to answer many of the soon