05-28-2022, 01:02 AM
all,
I haven't posted here much and its been a while. Hope all is well with you guys.
I hand sharpen knifes ,and straight razors, and of course the reality of the burr can be very frustrating! Anyways i have been reading the fellows book on deburring cant recall his name, but anyways it has lots of valuable info, that's opened my eyes. Anyways when honing a straight razor i don't aim for the 'burr method of sharpening', but matter what, if you have apexed then there's always a burr, but I should say that i go for burr minimum when honing a razor. BtW - i do agree with the authors quote, saying there's always a burr when You're making two flat bevel plains intersect. Again with straight razors i keep at a minimum. Its to the point to were it can't be felt or seen with the naked eye, but only with good magnification. I only speed read the book, and i will go back and read it slower later. The art in honing is to be able to remove the entire burr.
So from what i gather there's positive and negative burrs. Positive burrs are more maluable , and negative burrs are more robust. IMO either kind can happen on any steel. For example i hone relatively softer carbon steel razors and
i always get that 'low' meaning it will not flip flop back and forth during alternating passes, because its more robust, the reason i get a low is because i keep the burr at a very very minimum.. Its what i call the dreaded micro-white line, which is a micro-wire edge. Anyways so is a negative burr, also the 'low'/base wire edge? Anyways so in the book i think it says to remove the low at the 'same sharpening angle' (so that
must be the low) on the sharpening stone ,or does one need to do it on a strop? Looks like to me you can do this on a stone, because he says you must remove it at the same sharpening angle. If so do i go edge leading or edge trailing. So should i keep doing light passes only on the side with the low until its gone? Same way with a low on a cheaper stainless kitchen knife that i sharpened the other day i go a low, sometimes a low can be felt, and thats by taking the edge and going backwards against the thumbnail, and slightly raise the angle more obtuse that it was sharpened at and you can feel the very robust low dig into the nail, i assume that's a low that has been crushed or pushed into the side of the apex just yet, if it were then it wouldn't catch the nail, when its pushed onto the side of the bevel all one does is polish/burnish the low.
Anyways i thought I would share this video, i haven't tried this technique yet. But this video is a famous metallurgist/Dr and blade Smith that long gone now, he does something to were he strips of the burr or low buy moving the edge laterally off the side of the stone to remove the burrs, he mentioned this in his handbook ,but i never could understand it by reading the handbook, but through his demonstration on the video, it makes more sense..Look like moving sideways would catch the burr and strip/cut it off.
https://youtu.be/QPMtjba9_XQ
all,
I haven't posted here much and its been a while. Hope all is well with you guys.
I hand sharpen knifes ,and straight razors, and of course the reality of the burr can be very frustrating! Anyways i have been reading the fellows book on deburring cant recall his name, but anyways it has lots of valuable info, that's opened my eyes. Anyways when honing a straight razor i don't aim for the 'burr method of sharpening', but matter what, if you have apexed then there's always a burr, but I should say that i go for burr minimum when honing a razor. BtW - i do agree with the authors quote, saying there's always a burr when You're making two flat bevel plains intersect. Again with straight razors i keep at a minimum. Its to the point to were it can't be felt or seen with the naked eye, but only with good magnification. I only speed read the book, and i will go back and read it slower later. The art in honing is to be able to remove the entire burr.
So from what i gather there's positive and negative burrs. Positive burrs are more maluable , and negative burrs are more robust. IMO either kind can happen on any steel. For example i hone relatively softer carbon steel razors and
i always get that 'low' meaning it will not flip flop back and forth during alternating passes, because its more robust, the reason i get a low is because i keep the burr at a very very minimum.. Its what i call the dreaded micro-white line, which is a micro-wire edge. Anyways so is a negative burr, also the 'low'/base wire edge? Anyways so in the book i think it says to remove the low at the 'same sharpening angle' (so that
must be the low) on the sharpening stone ,or does one need to do it on a strop? Looks like to me you can do this on a stone, because he says you must remove it at the same sharpening angle. If so do i go edge leading or edge trailing. So should i keep doing light passes only on the side with the low until its gone? Same way with a low on a cheaper stainless kitchen knife that i sharpened the other day i go a low, sometimes a low can be felt, and thats by taking the edge and going backwards against the thumbnail, and slightly raise the angle more obtuse that it was sharpened at and you can feel the very robust low dig into the nail, i assume that's a low that has been crushed or pushed into the side of the apex just yet, if it were then it wouldn't catch the nail, when its pushed onto the side of the bevel all one does is polish/burnish the low.
Anyways i thought I would share this video, i haven't tried this technique yet. But this video is a famous metallurgist/Dr and blade Smith that long gone now, he does something to were he strips of the burr or low buy moving the edge laterally off the side of the stone to remove the burrs, he mentioned this in his handbook ,but i never could understand it by reading the handbook, but through his demonstration on the video, it makes more sense..Look like moving sideways would catch the burr and strip/cut it off.
https://youtu.be/QPMtjba9_XQ
I haven't posted here much and its been a while. Hope all is well with you guys.
I hand sharpen knifes ,and straight razors, and of course the reality of the burr can be very frustrating! Anyways i have been reading the fellows book on deburring cant recall his name, but anyways it has lots of valuable info, that's opened my eyes. Anyways when honing a straight razor i don't aim for the 'burr method of sharpening', but matter what, if you have apexed then there's always a burr, but I should say that i go for burr minimum when honing a razor. BtW - i do agree with the authors quote, saying there's always a burr when You're making two flat bevel plains intersect. Again with straight razors i keep at a minimum. Its to the point to were it can't be felt or seen with the naked eye, but only with good magnification. I only speed read the book, and i will go back and read it slower later. The art in honing is to be able to remove the entire burr.
So from what i gather there's positive and negative burrs. Positive burrs are more maluable , and negative burrs are more robust. IMO either kind can happen on any steel. For example i hone relatively softer carbon steel razors and
i always get that 'low' meaning it will not flip flop back and forth during alternating passes, because its more robust, the reason i get a low is because i keep the burr at a very very minimum.. Its what i call the dreaded micro-white line, which is a micro-wire edge. Anyways so is a negative burr, also the 'low'/base wire edge? Anyways so in the book i think it says to remove the low at the 'same sharpening angle' (so that
must be the low) on the sharpening stone ,or does one need to do it on a strop? Looks like to me you can do this on a stone, because he says you must remove it at the same sharpening angle. If so do i go edge leading or edge trailing. So should i keep doing light passes only on the side with the low until its gone? Same way with a low on a cheaper stainless kitchen knife that i sharpened the other day i go a low, sometimes a low can be felt, and thats by taking the edge and going backwards against the thumbnail, and slightly raise the angle more obtuse that it was sharpened at and you can feel the very robust low dig into the nail, i assume that's a low that has been crushed or pushed into the side of the apex just yet, if it were then it wouldn't catch the nail, when its pushed onto the side of the bevel all one does is polish/burnish the low.
Anyways i thought I would share this video, i haven't tried this technique yet. But this video is a famous metallurgist/Dr and blade Smith that long gone now, he does something to were he strips of the burr or low buy moving the edge laterally off the side of the stone to remove the burrs, he mentioned this in his handbook ,but i never could understand it by reading the handbook, but through his demonstration on the video, it makes more sense..Look like moving sideways would catch the burr and strip/cut it off.
https://youtu.be/QPMtjba9_XQ
all,
I haven't posted here much and its been a while. Hope all is well with you guys.
I hand sharpen knifes ,and straight razors, and of course the reality of the burr can be very frustrating! Anyways i have been reading the fellows book on deburring cant recall his name, but anyways it has lots of valuable info, that's opened my eyes. Anyways when honing a straight razor i don't aim for the 'burr method of sharpening', but matter what, if you have apexed then there's always a burr, but I should say that i go for burr minimum when honing a razor. BtW - i do agree with the authors quote, saying there's always a burr when You're making two flat bevel plains intersect. Again with straight razors i keep at a minimum. Its to the point to were it can't be felt or seen with the naked eye, but only with good magnification. I only speed read the book, and i will go back and read it slower later. The art in honing is to be able to remove the entire burr.
So from what i gather there's positive and negative burrs. Positive burrs are more maluable , and negative burrs are more robust. IMO either kind can happen on any steel. For example i hone relatively softer carbon steel razors and
i always get that 'low' meaning it will not flip flop back and forth during alternating passes, because its more robust, the reason i get a low is because i keep the burr at a very very minimum.. Its what i call the dreaded micro-white line, which is a micro-wire edge. Anyways so is a negative burr, also the 'low'/base wire edge? Anyways so in the book i think it says to remove the low at the 'same sharpening angle' (so that
must be the low) on the sharpening stone ,or does one need to do it on a strop? Looks like to me you can do this on a stone, because he says you must remove it at the same sharpening angle. If so do i go edge leading or edge trailing. So should i keep doing light passes only on the side with the low until its gone? Same way with a low on a cheaper stainless kitchen knife that i sharpened the other day i go a low, sometimes a low can be felt, and thats by taking the edge and going backwards against the thumbnail, and slightly raise the angle more obtuse that it was sharpened at and you can feel the very robust low dig into the nail, i assume that's a low that has been crushed or pushed into the side of the apex just yet, if it were then it wouldn't catch the nail, when its pushed onto the side of the bevel all one does is polish/burnish the low.
Anyways i thought I would share this video, i haven't tried this technique yet. But this video is a famous metallurgist/Dr and blade Smith that long gone now, he does something to were he strips of the burr or low buy moving the edge laterally off the side of the stone to remove the burrs, he mentioned this in his handbook ,but i never could understand it by reading the handbook, but through his demonstration on the video, it makes more sense..Look like moving sideways would catch the burr and strip/cut it off.
https://youtu.be/QPMtjba9_XQ