12-18-2017, 08:46 PM
I've been a member there for a while. My username there is ChrisAnders. I forgot the space in my name when setting up the account. I watched Murray Carter's video of forging a Nakiri, and it was quite entertaining.
I used to sharpen a lot on a belt sander, but after years of thinking it was working fine, I found out my edges were being softened considerably, so I stopped for the most part. Until I get a cooled version or a variable speed machine, final sharpening will have to be on stones. I only use power equipment for edge thinning or blade grinding now. A properly thinned edge doesn't take that long on stones, and even if it does, I only have to rebevel it once. I have reground a couple of knives down to around 0.005" at the top of the bevel, and they sharpen in no time.
I use a guide block for sharpening, similar to a one sided Spyderco Sharpmaker with a cedar 4x4 supporting a bench stone. It allows me the control to form a burr on a dull edge in as few as 15 passes per side following rope or cardboard cutting tests, and to remove an average of 0.0005" of width with each sharpening. This is on knives I've rebeveled to match my sharpening methods. I can sharpen free hand a bit faster, but the edges are just a bit less sharp, and I'd bet I'm removing more metal. The edges aren't as even either, and the scratches along the bevel have swirls and such in them. Sharpening isn't hard if you don't care what the knife looks like when you're done.
I read here you prefer a toothy edge. Have you tried one off a coarse Norton India stone? I think they're in the 100 grit range. I often use the fine side of my Norton Economy stone, which is similar to a Norton India fine. If you want a toothy edge, give it a go with you're coarsest stone. Rips right through stuff. I have a knife I carried that was my dad's, a spey and clip blade trapper. I sharpened the clip blade at 7 degrees per side with a Norton 220 grit water stone final finish. Nearly wore the knife out, but it cut like nothing else.
I used to sharpen a lot on a belt sander, but after years of thinking it was working fine, I found out my edges were being softened considerably, so I stopped for the most part. Until I get a cooled version or a variable speed machine, final sharpening will have to be on stones. I only use power equipment for edge thinning or blade grinding now. A properly thinned edge doesn't take that long on stones, and even if it does, I only have to rebevel it once. I have reground a couple of knives down to around 0.005" at the top of the bevel, and they sharpen in no time.
I use a guide block for sharpening, similar to a one sided Spyderco Sharpmaker with a cedar 4x4 supporting a bench stone. It allows me the control to form a burr on a dull edge in as few as 15 passes per side following rope or cardboard cutting tests, and to remove an average of 0.0005" of width with each sharpening. This is on knives I've rebeveled to match my sharpening methods. I can sharpen free hand a bit faster, but the edges are just a bit less sharp, and I'd bet I'm removing more metal. The edges aren't as even either, and the scratches along the bevel have swirls and such in them. Sharpening isn't hard if you don't care what the knife looks like when you're done.
I read here you prefer a toothy edge. Have you tried one off a coarse Norton India stone? I think they're in the 100 grit range. I often use the fine side of my Norton Economy stone, which is similar to a Norton India fine. If you want a toothy edge, give it a go with you're coarsest stone. Rips right through stuff. I have a knife I carried that was my dad's, a spey and clip blade trapper. I sharpened the clip blade at 7 degrees per side with a Norton 220 grit water stone final finish. Nearly wore the knife out, but it cut like nothing else.