My Sharpening and knife related videos

[JustinB60]

Thank you for creating and posting all of this information! Between watching your videos and reading greppers posts regarding the 1SM I have learned a lot in a very short period of time about the Kally unit, sharpening jigs, angles, etc.

[grepper]

Welcome to the Exchange Mr. Justin.  You are right!  There is a ton of great information on the Exchange shared by very knowledgeable and experienced sharpeners like Brian.  And, what better time to enjoy a good read than during this odd lock down time. 

Looking forward to your posts!

[blgentry]

Here's my recently reprofiled Delica.  I spent several years starting this reprofile job using hand stones.  I decided to make the edge angle even lower using the KallyRest and see what I could do.  

Interestingly, I initially stopped at 280 grit, but was unable to get a really nicely deburred edge. It was sharp sharp.  Nice BESS reading and it shaved hair well.  But it hung in paper despite quite a bit of effort at removing the burr.  

So, after waiting over night, I decided to redo the edge, ending at 600 grit, and then deburring with green compound on leather.  Here are the results.





Brian.

[chino]

Nicely done Brian. I still want to see your working on the Kally. It may be boring to some, but I would like to see your technique (and Mark’s if possible). I look forward to anything you can post. Take care and thanks!

[blgentry]

Nicely done Brian. I still want to see your working on the Kally. It may be boring to some, but I would like to see your technique (and Mark’s if possible). I look forward to anything you can post. Take care and thanks!

You might have missed my post above, #9, where I do quite a bit of sharpening on a kitchen knife using the KallyRest.  I essentially made that video because you asked.  It's not very exciting, as you point out, but you can see some of my technique there.  Here's that post, to save you the trouble of looking for it:

http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...64#pid5364

It does not show the finishing process or deburring, but it should give you a good idea of the bulk of work done on the Kally.

Brian.

[chino]

Hi Brian,

No, I’ve seen it. In my case, I’ll ask for more if I may. I’m a visual learner and technique from people who have experience is greatly appreciated.

Trial and error, too. You definitely don’t want to see a paring knife I worked on with the work sharp. Lol.

[grepper]

Nice work Brian!  The bevel looks great to me especially considering it’s a regrind to 12 degrees.  

Your comment about it not being perfect reminds me of painting a ceiling in a room and going back the next day to do the walls.  Climbing a ladder you notice right in the corner there is a tiny ¼” bubble in the paint.  Every time you walk into the room your eyes immediately go right to that corner and if the light is just right you can, or at least think you can see it.  I didn’t notice until you pointed it out.  It’s an EDC, looks great and it’s very sharp.  

That overwork with the stones looks like it’s only on the right side and only on 1/3 of the tip end.  That could be easily corrected the next time it needs sharpening.  That said, it looks great to me. And… it’s damn sharp.  Excellent work!

[grepper]

Mr. chino - Brian's video shows using the Kallyrest very well.  It's not a super complicated rocket science kind of operation.  And, the Kallyrest is very forgiving as far as creating an even bevel is concerned. 

It is recommended the Kallyrest be mounted at the top of the platen.  Mounted in that position, sharpening happens 1" above the platen on the open belt.  Because the knife is not against a hard surface, the belt can flex just enough to be extremely forgiving and easily produces an even bevel.  At the same time, because it's only 1" above the platen the belt is still very stiff yet forgiving in easily producing an even bevel. 

A lot of research and testing went into finding the best sharpening position as far as distance from the platen is concerned.  Sharpen against the platen and it's real easy to screw up the bevel.  Too far from the platen the belt is more slack and produces a very convex bevel.  Testing reveled sharpening 1" above the platen easily produced even bevels with a  beautiful every so slightly convex bevel.  

The only part that requires a little understanding and explanation is that, as Brian shows, placing a finger (or thumb) on the spine of the blade and maintaining a gentle upward pressure against the finger or thumb.  This is because the belt wants to pull the knife downward and into the belt.  It doesn't require much upward pressure at all.  It's not a big deal and only takes a few passes of the blade before it's second nature.  Am I right Brian?

For me at least, the most important thing to learn about belt sharpening is to use very light pressure even if it requires another pass or two over the belt.  And, to stop at the first sign of a tiny burr.  Unless hogging off metal is the goal, super light knife to belt pressure is the way to go.

[chino]

Hi Mark, thanks for the thorough reply. I’m going to replay the setup video and the referred video.

After that, I’ll see what happens. Thanks all!

Mr. chino - Brian's video shows using the Kallyrest very well.  It's not a super complicated rocket science kind of operation.  And, the Kallyrest is very forgiving as far as creating an even bevel is concerned. 

It is recommended the Kallyrest be mounted at the top of the platen.  Mounted in that position, sharpening happens 1" above the platen on the open belt.  Because the knife is not against a hard surface, the belt can flex just enough to be extremely forgiving and easily produces an even bevel.  At the same time, because it's only 1" above the platen the belt is still very stiff yet forgiving in easily producing an even bevel. 

A lot of research and testing went into finding the best sharpening position as far as distance from the platen is concerned.  Sharpen against the platen and it's real easy to screw up the bevel.  Too far from the platen the belt is more slack and produces a very convex bevel.  Testing reveled sharpening 1" above the platen easily produced even bevels with a  beautiful every so slightly convex bevel.  

The only part that requires a little understanding and explanation is that, as Brian shows, placing a finger (or thumb) on the spine of the blade and maintaining a gentle upward pressure against the finger or thumb.  This is because the belt wants to pull the knife downward and into the belt.  It doesn't require much upward pressure at all.  It's not a big deal and only takes a few passes of the blade before it's second nature.  Am I right Brian?

For me at least, the most important thing to learn about belt sharpening is to use very light pressure even if it requires another pass or two over the belt.  And, to stop at the first sign of a tiny burr.  Unless hogging off metal is the goal, super light knife to belt pressure is the way to go.

[blgentry]

 It doesn't require much upward pressure at all.  It's not a big deal and only takes a few passes of the blade before it's second nature.  Am I right Brian?

It took me a few tries to learn the motion.  It helps to play around with moving the blade with the belt grinder turned off.  Then try it on some practice blades.

I still have to be really aware of the curve of the blade so I can follow it properly.  On bigger blades it's pretty easy.  On short folding knives, like the Delica above, I have to pay a lot more attention as it's not nearly as obvious where you are grinding.  

One of the biggest "secrets" to grinding blades is knowing how to keep the blade edge perpendicular to the belt or stone.  This insures that you are grinding where you think you are, and not on a different part of the blade.  If you have ever sharpened a knife and wondered why you can't get the curve or the tip sharp, this is probably why.

Brian.