Viel Variable Speed Motor Conversion - Alternative Method

[Rick Kr]

The build is complete, at least for now.  We'll see what, if any adjustments are necessary or desired.

Viel turned around and tilted on its back, set up so the USB/knife jigs are out in front of the top/passive pulley, with the point of contact along the platen close to the pulley.  I have not installed the reversing switch yet, but I have reversed the leads inside the control box so the belt travels away from the knife (edge-trailing) in this position.  This position keeps the lengthened platen available for edge/tip repairs, bolster treatments, etc.
       

I built it so the whole assembly could be tilted up so the sander rests on its factory feet and can be used in the upright/frontal orientation, such as using the Viel platform or free-hand deburring, etc.  In this position, the belt is traveling downward, so is not usable for sharpening so much, but more like the traditional 1x30" benchtop belt sander.  I have one and am considering retrofitting it with the same variable speed motor.
   

As could be expected, there is always something.  The MicroAdjust (MA) nut, if screwed all the way up on the USB upright interferes with the stock adjustable collar.  I have two MAs on each USB, on at the top and one down on the Horizontal Base (HB) (or T8 case) as an aid to keeping the calipers parallel with the upright when setting heights using one of the angle calculating apps.
   

With the USB so close to the HB, it may be more difficult to keep parallel, if using calipers.  I am thinking it would be faster and more definitive to make some spacers to use between the bottom of the USB bar and the top of the HB, eliminating the use of calipers for standard angles, such as 12, 14, 16 and 18º and permitting not having the MA right up there at the top.
   

Dust collection is next.  

Rick

[grepper]

On the dust collection thing, the one I have for the Kally is isolated only for the Kally.  Even though I rarely if ever produce sparks when sharpening knives, the last thing the I want is to start a fire in the collection bag in my basement.  Hence the design of circulation air flow in a bucket with some water at the bottom.  Probably overkill but it brings me peace of mind.  

Sparks or not, I've also heard that it's not a good idea to mix ferrous metal dust into a dust collection system used for woodworking due to chemical reaction of iron particles with varnish buildup from woodworking dust.  I have no idea if that is true or not, just something I read somewhere.

Perhaps our resident scientist Mr. Jan can chime in on that.

[Rick Kr]

Excellent point of information, Mr. Grepper.  Thanks.  I had not thought of that and was intending on using the shopvac that I have set up with a Dust Deputy. 

RATS!  I really did not need to set up a second, independent collection system. 

Rick

[grepper]

The thing that creeped me out the most was the idea of sharpening something just before I went to sleep and awakening to smoke detectors going off due to a smoldering fire started in the dust collector.  I suspect that is less of an issue in a shop vac especially a metal one, but I'd rather be safe than really sorry.

The shop vac thing helps a lot, but they blow out more or less unfiltered air equal to the CFM of their input.  It's probably not much of an issue with infrequent sharpening but if you do a lot of it it might be.  I really don't know what I'm talking about but that's the premise I went with.

[EOU]

Interesting thoughts Grepper and ones that wouldn't have occurred to us. Jan may be our resident scientist but you are now our resident safety officer. Thanks for your additional work on the Viel Rick Kr but most of all for sharing it in detailed form with the Exchange!

[Rick Kr]

Thanks, EOU.  As you can tell, I do enjoy the sharing, according to my daughter - to a fault   

Grepper.  I think you are spot on with the cautionary approach.  My shopvac is on the larger size, stainless steel tank, but it uses a big paper filter bag over the intake.  Dust from woodworking and now anything vacuumed (wasps included) go into a first stage cyclone separator, a Dust Deputy on a 5-gal. bucket.  There is always a pile of wood dust in there, hardly any of it reaching the SV bag, which is a very good thing. 

I have almost no run-time on the Viel yet, but due to its variable speed, I've only used it so far on the slowest speed. I have not noticed any sparks, but I haven't really taken of a lot of metal with it yet.  Here is a junker knife I had lying around.  It used to be serrated with a bolster. 
   

Great test bed.  I am wondering about how wide the bevel is, even though it is at 12º, the blade is not very thick.  I did notice more difficulty working the curved and tip sections, more so than on the Tormek, keeping the angle and bevel width reasonable.  It felt as if there wasn't the same "space" for lifting and pivoting.

These pruning shears are the only other thing I have sharpened so far, just a quick job to get an edge on them to trim some branches so my daughter can make "Crayon twigs" for one of the Art Camp sessions she has been doing all summer. No interest or attempt to refine the edge on anything but the 120 grit belt on the Viel. 
   

I am thinking a bucket with counter current air flow, similar to your design may be in order.  Have you considered putting anything into the water at the bottom of the bucket to impede rust?  I am wondering about lacing it with anti-freeze. 

Rick

[grepper]

Mr. Rick uttered, “Grepper.  I think you are spot on with the cautionary approach.”

Yup, Mr. Rick.  When producing sparks doing something like grinding the head off a bolt, even without water in the bottom of my bucket dust collection contraption, there is so much air flow I find it hard to believe that any tiny glowing particle could make it though the hose, bucket and fan of the dust collector without cooling enough to not cause a fire.

Nonetheless, a house or shop fire is one of those situations where even if the risk of occurrence is very low the damaging consequences if it happened is disastrous and even life threatening.  The idea of a house fire is one of those things that really freak me out and I’ve been know to actually get out of bed and go down in the basement just to check if I turned off a soldering iron.  It’s always turned off, but I’ve done that more than once.

I know that metal dust is not a good thing for equipment and I hear it’s really not a desirable inhalant either.  Of course Hepa filters and the like are available for a collector system, but those things are really pricey.  My super cheap bucket thing forces the air flow directly at water twice and I would think (hope) it is effective.  

Read the first three posts here: https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?74...orking-too

For me at least when it comes to burning my house down, I’d rather be ridiculously safe than wishing I had.

Mr. Rick exclaimed, “No interest or attempt to refine the edge on anything but the 120 grit belt on the Viel.”

I like that!  It’s funny.  The older and more experienced I get the less fussy I am about producing the perfect edge.  I’ve learned that for the most part, and most of the time it’s not worth the effort.  Perfect or not they all dull at about the same rate.  It’s more about making an edge that works well for the job at hand.

Mr. Rick queried, “Have you considered putting anything into the water at the bottom of the bucket to impede rust?  I am wondering about lacing it with anti-freeze.”

Yes.  I have considered it.  There are anti-rust solutions available.  Have I done it?  No.  I solve the problem by simply not looking at how disgusting the goop in the bottom has become.  You know, the old electrical tape over the warning light solution.

[Rick Kr]

I've been working on the electronics/control box to add a motor direction reversing switch.  It has been a pain finding the right switch.  I'd really prefer a rocker switch, but the best I've been able to find in any store locally is a toggle switch.  I'm going with that until I find the right rocker switch.  

Image of the insides of the control box.  Reversing switch is going to go into the lower left corner.  The speed pot has a locating tab.  I wanted to rotate it 180º to get the leads on the bottom, so I had to drill a new locating tab hole into the case.  That speed pot is just loose in there in this photo.
   

Reversing switch installed.  
   

External view of the installed reversing switch.  Ken took his to a motor shop to have the switch put in.  They located it on the bottom of the case where the power cords come and go and where the reset button is.  I wanted my reversing switch to be distinguishable from the On/Off switch but to be near it and the speed pot on the top of the case.  The only place for it was on the side, but that is near enough.  
   

The reversing switch isn't wired yet, as I have not located my box of electronics parts since my move and the local hardware stores do not have what I need.  

Rick

[Rick Kr]

I didn't like the toggle switch, so I ordered some "mini" rocker switches (3).  I anticipate converting my 1x30" belt sander to the same variable/reversible motor from PSI, so I wanted at least one more, so got 3. 

I kinda butchered it on one side with milling out the hole. 
   

Wiring has gotten sorta tight in the box.  I put shrink wrap insulation over the exposed quick disconnect fittings. 
   

I put this switch next to the main power switch.  It is low profile enough, I think I will not have much trouble flipping it instead of the power switch.  Won't matter much, as all that would do is reverse the motor/pulleys/belt, but that does happen with a bit of a jolt.  In use, I intend to power off before reversing. 
   

I'll find or make a small cover for the hole left by the toggle switch, although, I think it hardly matters.  It is on the side that has a bunch of vent slots, so it isn't like the hole will let in dirt anymore than the slots do.  

Rick

[Bud]

That is nice work Mr. Rick Kr! I'm really interested in doing the same with my Kally. I really think that the ability to change belt directions might produce some interesting results. For sure it would make for interesting experimentation.