(02-19-2018, 07:03 PM)me2 Wrote: The torch hardening part I'm familiar with. It's the hardening the whole blade afterward that I don't think I've read before.
Sorry Mr. Me2, I've been meaning to answer this. I apologize for misinterpreting your query.
I use an O/A torch to heat the edge, then quench the whole blade. I look for the scale to have popped off the edge, so I know the edge was hardened. It comes out of the quench oil looking like this;
The blade is cleaned up with grease-less abrasive on a buffer, and a light etch shows exactly how much of the blade was hardened.
With 52100, the steel that wasn't hot enough to harden is soft, which allows the etchant to have maximum effect. Different blade preparations for etching create different results, and of course, more etching magnifies the result. This blade is fully etched, but the spine is still soft.
Looks are very important to me. I want to make something that people haven't seen before. At first glance anyone can see this isn't an ordinary blade.
The only thing more important is performance, so of course the major goal is full hardening of the entire blade. I certainly take that as seriously as anything. Getting very fine grain to HRC 65-66 takes a precise temperature, held for a certain amount of time. It requires the highest performance quench oil at the correct temperature to create the hardest martensite. Immediately after quench, it takes a steady reduction of temperature to the fullest extent to create the purest martensite with the least RA. You have to go straight from quench to cryo in LN. No, there is no time for tempering after quenching if that is the goal, so you better figure out why blades break, and eliminate the cause for that completely. Fortunately, that's not nearly as difficult as people think.
The blades can keep their original etched patterning after full hardening, if you figure absolutely everything into the plan, so they come out looking like anything from this;
...to this;
...to this;
The only thing left is making them impossible to break. It took quite a while to figure out how to do that perfectly every time, but I can tell you it is certainly possible with very close to 100% success. Precisely drawing the spine is the last hurdle for ultimate performance.