05-04-2017, 06:59 PM
Cool, thanks!
Being a newbie, I leave a lot of material behind before HT, like .030-.050.
I would rather spend more time working slowly (controlling heat) on the edge after HT, than deal with warping and not having enough material left to make a proper edge.
I have been considering experimenting with building a two sided box (which isn't really a box at all).
Just two plates of 304 stainless at 3/16" thick and 1/4" apart, with tabs holding them together at the corners.
Blade goes in middle (not touching).
Quench the whole apparatus.
Seems that the radiant local heat from the stainless plates would at least give me an extra second of margin.
Also, might help with the 'straight in' principle on the HT, just because of the extra weight.
Of course, it will affect the quench oil temp as well. Perhaps adversely.
I watched Mark's video on differential heat treating and definitely will be doing that on my next blade.
It was easy enough to control the heat affected zone on the Nikiri to keep the edge 'hard' and temper the spine.
But, a smaller blade would be pretty tough to control.
Love the differential method!
Being a newbie, I leave a lot of material behind before HT, like .030-.050.
I would rather spend more time working slowly (controlling heat) on the edge after HT, than deal with warping and not having enough material left to make a proper edge.
I have been considering experimenting with building a two sided box (which isn't really a box at all).
Just two plates of 304 stainless at 3/16" thick and 1/4" apart, with tabs holding them together at the corners.
Blade goes in middle (not touching).
Quench the whole apparatus.
Seems that the radiant local heat from the stainless plates would at least give me an extra second of margin.
Also, might help with the 'straight in' principle on the HT, just because of the extra weight.
Of course, it will affect the quench oil temp as well. Perhaps adversely.
I watched Mark's video on differential heat treating and definitely will be doing that on my next blade.
It was easy enough to control the heat affected zone on the Nikiri to keep the edge 'hard' and temper the spine.
But, a smaller blade would be pretty tough to control.
Love the differential method!