http://bessex.com/forum/ Mon, 18 May 2026 06:01:10 +0000 MyBB http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=590 Tue, 02 Nov 2021 05:11:57 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=590  
I sanded the handles so they were smooth.  Not pretty, but much better with no sharp edges and are now comfortable to hold.
 
Using the Kally 1SM and a Kallyrest, after sharpening, handle to tip-
 
3.5” parer:  75, 85, 80.
8” chef’s: 70, 80, 65, 75
 
For the parer I used 150 Cubitron, very fine Scotch-Brite, rough side of leather belt no compound.
Same for the chef's except it was duller so 80 AO first to speed things up, then 150 Cubitron, Scotch-Brite, leather.

I don't use compound because I want to preserve as much "toothy" as possible.  Compound is a fine abrasive and reduces toothy.
 
Didn't take very long to do.  Then I cleaned the blades with liquid Barkeeper's Friend and polished the handles with Turtle Wax Seal and Shine Si02 ceramic spray.  I charged the lady $5.00.  A real windfall.  Now I can retire.]]>  
I sanded the handles so they were smooth.  Not pretty, but much better with no sharp edges and are now comfortable to hold.
 
Using the Kally 1SM and a Kallyrest, after sharpening, handle to tip-
 
3.5” parer:  75, 85, 80.
8” chef’s: 70, 80, 65, 75
 
For the parer I used 150 Cubitron, very fine Scotch-Brite, rough side of leather belt no compound.
Same for the chef's except it was duller so 80 AO first to speed things up, then 150 Cubitron, Scotch-Brite, leather.

I don't use compound because I want to preserve as much "toothy" as possible.  Compound is a fine abrasive and reduces toothy.
 
Didn't take very long to do.  Then I cleaned the blades with liquid Barkeeper's Friend and polished the handles with Turtle Wax Seal and Shine Si02 ceramic spray.  I charged the lady $5.00.  A real windfall.  Now I can retire.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=586 Fri, 02 Jul 2021 08:24:16 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=586



a 100-nanometer edge scores 50 BESS, this is the apex diameter of the Gillette razor.

When your knife edge scores less than 50 BESS, its width at the very apex is less than the size of the single coronavirus.
When I realised that, I find it quite fascinating.

My last video shows a knife edge that is half the size of this virus, and what this edge can do:



]]>



a 100-nanometer edge scores 50 BESS, this is the apex diameter of the Gillette razor.

When your knife edge scores less than 50 BESS, its width at the very apex is less than the size of the single coronavirus.
When I realised that, I find it quite fascinating.

My last video shows a knife edge that is half the size of this virus, and what this edge can do:



]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=585 Sat, 12 Jun 2021 16:35:57 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=585 you can tell that from my posts.......

I have recently invested - and it's my
best-ever sharpening investment - in the PT50.

After some flailing around, I was able,
with careful attention to protocols, to get
one of my little "super-steel" SPYDERCO knives
down to a (admittedly brief) lifetime best of BESS 36 !

With that under my belt, I can give more attention
to the part of sharpening that I CAN'T seem to measure:  "TOOTHY."

Sharpness as measured to BESS seems fairly
straightforward to me now, but I read folks that
DON'T measure to BESS talking about how their
"toothy" knives are better at cutting than knives "BESS" sharp.

How do we measure that ?]]> you can tell that from my posts.......

I have recently invested - and it's my
best-ever sharpening investment - in the PT50.

After some flailing around, I was able,
with careful attention to protocols, to get
one of my little "super-steel" SPYDERCO knives
down to a (admittedly brief) lifetime best of BESS 36 !

With that under my belt, I can give more attention
to the part of sharpening that I CAN'T seem to measure:  "TOOTHY."

Sharpness as measured to BESS seems fairly
straightforward to me now, but I read folks that
DON'T measure to BESS talking about how their
"toothy" knives are better at cutting than knives "BESS" sharp.

How do we measure that ?]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=574 Sat, 13 Mar 2021 06:36:54 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=574


The photo shows Mike’s experiment with perpendicular load on a shaving-sharp 160-BESS edge with a flat end of a hardened steel rod:
2 Kg load on a hardened 5/16" steel rod did not effect the burr-free edge of a mid-range Henkel chef's knife - the same BESS reading and unchanged optical microscopy.

We see the same strength in our rental knife of 61 BESS -




The video shows how we check that the sharpening method is right. It goes without saying that we do not subject each sharpened knife to all this checks.

The Victorinox SWIBO Chef's knife in my video is sharpened at 12 dps and shows 61 BESS before and after the 2kg impact, and this is really impressive how strong a cleanly deburred edge is.
We filmed this episode by a single long shot.
A new Gillette razor scores 50 BESS, but of course is nowhere near as strong as the knife edge.

Key to the edge longevity, to the lasting razor edge on your knife, is to clean it of all the metal deformed in grinding.

]]>


The photo shows Mike’s experiment with perpendicular load on a shaving-sharp 160-BESS edge with a flat end of a hardened steel rod:
2 Kg load on a hardened 5/16" steel rod did not effect the burr-free edge of a mid-range Henkel chef's knife - the same BESS reading and unchanged optical microscopy.

We see the same strength in our rental knife of 61 BESS -




The video shows how we check that the sharpening method is right. It goes without saying that we do not subject each sharpened knife to all this checks.

The Victorinox SWIBO Chef's knife in my video is sharpened at 12 dps and shows 61 BESS before and after the 2kg impact, and this is really impressive how strong a cleanly deburred edge is.
We filmed this episode by a single long shot.
A new Gillette razor scores 50 BESS, but of course is nowhere near as strong as the knife edge.

Key to the edge longevity, to the lasting razor edge on your knife, is to clean it of all the metal deformed in grinding.

]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=573 Thu, 04 Mar 2021 03:39:20 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=573
Here is my typical progression:
1. Cubitrion II 120 grit
2. Trizact A30
3. Leather belt (smooth side) with green buffing compound

It gives a very sharp edge, but I find even with feather pressure, the green compound, while it assists it removing the burr quickly, polishes the apex of the edge. I'd like to preserve the tooth as much as possible.

I'm looking for input and discussion on options for step 3 above (or possibly adding a fourth step). Here are some I've thought about

Changing a step:
3. Use a leather belt (or other belt) loaded with CBN or diamond compound to maintain the tooth and assist in deburring without polishing action. Any suggestions on brands or micron size?
3. Use a finer or coarser buffing bar to control the rate of polishing action. Any recommendations on types? I think I am going to abandon the honing compound, personally. At least as far as tooth preservation is concerned.
3. Use a different speed SFPM for the final step so the polishing action is not occurring as rapidly. Could this reduce the effectiveness of the burr removal?

Adding a step:
+ 4. additional trailing pass on each side using a medium ceramic rod or ultra fine diamond rod. This works very well to restore tooth to the polished part of the edge. But really it is just undoing what has been done.
3/4. use scotch brite to deburr followed by plain or coarse side leather. I take it this is the approach many are using right now, and perhaps it is also the best. No compound and just use a two-belt deburr process.

I'd love to hear from those using CBN or diamond compounds for deburring and also those using scotch brite or felt belts do deburr. The SB I find gives fairly rapid burr removal. Felt I find has not produced quick or consistent removal.]]>
Here is my typical progression:
1. Cubitrion II 120 grit
2. Trizact A30
3. Leather belt (smooth side) with green buffing compound

It gives a very sharp edge, but I find even with feather pressure, the green compound, while it assists it removing the burr quickly, polishes the apex of the edge. I'd like to preserve the tooth as much as possible.

I'm looking for input and discussion on options for step 3 above (or possibly adding a fourth step). Here are some I've thought about

Changing a step:
3. Use a leather belt (or other belt) loaded with CBN or diamond compound to maintain the tooth and assist in deburring without polishing action. Any suggestions on brands or micron size?
3. Use a finer or coarser buffing bar to control the rate of polishing action. Any recommendations on types? I think I am going to abandon the honing compound, personally. At least as far as tooth preservation is concerned.
3. Use a different speed SFPM for the final step so the polishing action is not occurring as rapidly. Could this reduce the effectiveness of the burr removal?

Adding a step:
+ 4. additional trailing pass on each side using a medium ceramic rod or ultra fine diamond rod. This works very well to restore tooth to the polished part of the edge. But really it is just undoing what has been done.
3/4. use scotch brite to deburr followed by plain or coarse side leather. I take it this is the approach many are using right now, and perhaps it is also the best. No compound and just use a two-belt deburr process.

I'd love to hear from those using CBN or diamond compounds for deburring and also those using scotch brite or felt belts do deburr. The SB I find gives fairly rapid burr removal. Felt I find has not produced quick or consistent removal.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=570 Sun, 31 Jan 2021 20:51:22 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=570 https://bladeforums.com/threads/is-micro...s.1769466/

I've learnt that of the multiple factors dulling the razor, the main is water salts deposited when it dries.
Now after use I blow the water out of my cartridge razor with my wife's hair dryer.

I've also finally learnt the shaving razor composition and hardness:
12-13 % Cr and 0.6 % C, heat treated to around 62-3 HRC

I was impressed by how 1 short comment by Todd Simpson invalidated that complex scanning electron microscopy experiment on cutting the hair that chipped the razor.]]> https://bladeforums.com/threads/is-micro...s.1769466/

I've learnt that of the multiple factors dulling the razor, the main is water salts deposited when it dries.
Now after use I blow the water out of my cartridge razor with my wife's hair dryer.

I've also finally learnt the shaving razor composition and hardness:
12-13 % Cr and 0.6 % C, heat treated to around 62-3 HRC

I was impressed by how 1 short comment by Todd Simpson invalidated that complex scanning electron microscopy experiment on cutting the hair that chipped the razor.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=567 Thu, 14 Jan 2021 20:43:23 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=567 Brian Gentry just put up a new youtube video on polished edges vs toothy edges. 
Thought I'd just drop a line to make you aware of it; sure has been quiet around here
lately. Where's everybody? ]]> Brian Gentry just put up a new youtube video on polished edges vs toothy edges. 
Thought I'd just drop a line to make you aware of it; sure has been quiet around here
lately. Where's everybody? ]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=548 Sun, 28 Jun 2020 10:08:27 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=548 ]]> ]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=545 Fri, 01 May 2020 15:58:20 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=545
First of all - even if one were intentionally trying to screw up the measurements, it's doubtful that one could produce this disparity in readings on a well ground and thoroughly deburred edge.  Now, please don't take this as a challenge Exchange members! As a rule though, the statement is accurate.

90 - 180 - 220 do bear the mark of a wire (or false) edge however. In the first case (90), the edge had just enough structural stability to sever the test media cleanly. In the latter two measurements (180, 220) it didn't and either dented or folded the wire edge over before severing the test media. There could be other edge problems that could manifest in this manner  but I advised the customer to look for a wire edge first.

Wire edges do make me think though. Usually, once a  wire edge is removed, there is no significant reduction in sharpness. In the case of our customer, and once the wire edge is removed, he should end up with an edge that measures around 90. This leads me to believe that the  width of the wire edge is about the same at the top as it is at the base where it will be separated from the newly created and structurally improved edge apex. So the problem with wire edges is that they are just "too tall" for their own good. So how's that for pure conjecture on my part? My mind is a terrible burden. I visualize microscopic things in dinner plate size and then draw conclusions. Those visualizations are sometimes later proven correct and sometimes not. I never reveal my batting average - too embarrassing.]]>
First of all - even if one were intentionally trying to screw up the measurements, it's doubtful that one could produce this disparity in readings on a well ground and thoroughly deburred edge.  Now, please don't take this as a challenge Exchange members! As a rule though, the statement is accurate.

90 - 180 - 220 do bear the mark of a wire (or false) edge however. In the first case (90), the edge had just enough structural stability to sever the test media cleanly. In the latter two measurements (180, 220) it didn't and either dented or folded the wire edge over before severing the test media. There could be other edge problems that could manifest in this manner  but I advised the customer to look for a wire edge first.

Wire edges do make me think though. Usually, once a  wire edge is removed, there is no significant reduction in sharpness. In the case of our customer, and once the wire edge is removed, he should end up with an edge that measures around 90. This leads me to believe that the  width of the wire edge is about the same at the top as it is at the base where it will be separated from the newly created and structurally improved edge apex. So the problem with wire edges is that they are just "too tall" for their own good. So how's that for pure conjecture on my part? My mind is a terrible burden. I visualize microscopic things in dinner plate size and then draw conclusions. Those visualizations are sometimes later proven correct and sometimes not. I never reveal my batting average - too embarrassing.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=538 Sun, 29 Mar 2020 00:41:40 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=538 At the end I’ll show how we can do this in only 15 seconds.
 
To calculate the taper of the blade all we need to know is the thickness of the blade at the spine and the width from spine to edge.
 
This is the knife from this post: http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...17#pid5317
 
The green/blue just shows the blade bisected into two triangles.  We know the thickness at the spine and the width from spine to edge.  Divide the thickness in half to get ½ the thickness.
 

  knife.png (Size: 6.52 KB / Downloads: 14)
 
Here is the triangle formed by ½ of the bisected blade.  Why do this?  Because now we have a simple triangle.  We know three things:  The length of two sides (2.012, 22.999) and one angle 90°.  This is cool because we can use SAS (Side Angle Side) calculations to get the length of the hypotenuse and from there the interior angles.
 

  half knife.png (Size: 6.95 KB / Downloads: 9)
 
All that’s left to do are some quick and simple mental calculations to determine the taper angle is 5°.
 

  calc.png (Size: 18.09 KB / Downloads: 11)
 
Of course some (most?) blades get thinner at the spine from the handle to the tip.  Oh well, other than using a CNC machine with some complicated programming for sharpening, we’ll just have to live with it.  Maybe the best thing to do is to pick some mid point and call it good.
 
As promised, here’s how to do this in 15 seconds!  Go to either of these two web sites, select SAS calculation, enter ½ the spine thickness for one side and the width of the blade from spine to edge for the other side and 90° for the angle.  Press the GO button.  Done.

https://www.triangle-calculator.com/?wha...bmit=Solve

http://www.1728.org/trig4.htm

A Google search turns out many triangle calculators.

See?  Easy!]]> At the end I’ll show how we can do this in only 15 seconds.
 
To calculate the taper of the blade all we need to know is the thickness of the blade at the spine and the width from spine to edge.
 
This is the knife from this post: http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?t...17#pid5317
 
The green/blue just shows the blade bisected into two triangles.  We know the thickness at the spine and the width from spine to edge.  Divide the thickness in half to get ½ the thickness.
 

  knife.png (Size: 6.52 KB / Downloads: 14)
 
Here is the triangle formed by ½ of the bisected blade.  Why do this?  Because now we have a simple triangle.  We know three things:  The length of two sides (2.012, 22.999) and one angle 90°.  This is cool because we can use SAS (Side Angle Side) calculations to get the length of the hypotenuse and from there the interior angles.
 

  half knife.png (Size: 6.95 KB / Downloads: 9)
 
All that’s left to do are some quick and simple mental calculations to determine the taper angle is 5°.
 

  calc.png (Size: 18.09 KB / Downloads: 11)
 
Of course some (most?) blades get thinner at the spine from the handle to the tip.  Oh well, other than using a CNC machine with some complicated programming for sharpening, we’ll just have to live with it.  Maybe the best thing to do is to pick some mid point and call it good.
 
As promised, here’s how to do this in 15 seconds!  Go to either of these two web sites, select SAS calculation, enter ½ the spine thickness for one side and the width of the blade from spine to edge for the other side and 90° for the angle.  Press the GO button.  Done.

https://www.triangle-calculator.com/?wha...bmit=Solve

http://www.1728.org/trig4.htm

A Google search turns out many triangle calculators.

See?  Easy!]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=532 Tue, 10 Mar 2020 21:48:54 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=532
In previous sharpening adventures, I've used flat stones and plates and used wooden wedges as an angle guide.  With these, you put the wedge on the stone and then lay the knife body on top of the angle wedge.

Many blades are roughly triangular in cross section, even before you get to the edge bevel.  If you measure the included angle of the BODY of the blade, you normally will find that knives vary from around 3 degrees inclusive to fairly large angles.  I just measured a Cold Steel Recon Tanto and it showed over 12 degrees inclusive. 

So, if you want to know the true edge angle, and you're using an angle guide like I'm describing, you have to take into account the angle "offset" of the body.  In particular, one half of the included angle is the offset.  For a 3 degree inclusive blade, the offset is 1.5 degrees.

With a wedge where you set the body on top of the wedge, the edge is being lifted up by the body.  So you have to add the offset to the reference angle.  For example, if you have a wedge of wood cut at 15 degrees and you put a 4 degree inclusive knife on top of it, you have to add 1/2 of 4 degrees, or 2 degrees.  15 + 2 = 17 degrees.  17 degrees is the true edge angle that will be ground in. 

Or said the other way, if you want a 15 degree edge angle and you have a 4 degree inclusive blade body, you have to account for the 2 degree offset:  15 - 2 = 13.  You need a 13 degree WEDGE in order to produce a 15 degree edge angle on a 4 degree inclusive blade body.  

Here's where it gets interesting to me.  I've been doing these calculations for years and was pretty comfortable with them.  When I got the KallyRest and later an angle cube, I planned to do these calculations to put some really low edge angles on a few blades.  I'm planning on doing a few at 12 degrees per side and 10 degrees per side.  I started to do the subtraction in the previous paragraph and something didn't seem right to me.  I thought about it and drew some pictures.  It turns out with the KallyRest (or any similar "angle table") the math is backwards!

You see, with the KR, the angle is not a wedge you are sitting on top of.  Instead it's a SPACE between the table and the abrasive.  So, when you set the blade body on the rest and it has (for example) a 4 degree included angle, you are getting CLOSER to the abrasive.  With an angle wedge the body lifts further away from the abrasive!  The tool rest is backwards from this.  You get closer to the abrasive, therefore the edge angle is DECREASED by the body of the blade.  Wow.  I know, I know, it's just basic geometry but for me it was a wow moment.

Which means that if I set the KR to 15 degrees and I put my 4 degree (inclusive) blade body on it, I'm going to be grinding in a 13 degree edge angle.  Or said the other way, if I want a 15 degree edge angle on my 4 degree blade body, I have to add the offset.  15 (edge) + 2 (offset) = 17.  I need to set the KR to 17 degrees in order to get a 15 degree edge angle on this 4 degree blade body.

One of the blades I want to take to somewhere between 9 and 11 degrees (edge angle) is a full flat ground Delica.  I've measured it's body angle at 3.7 degrees inclusive.  So to take it to 11 degrees (edge). I need to set the KR to:  11 + (3.7/2) = 12.85 degrees.  Neat.

I might make a video about this.  I'm not sure if the words I've written are clear enough to get the meaning across.  Let me know if this makes sense and/or if anyone would like to see a video about this subject.

Thanks for reading.

Brian.]]>
In previous sharpening adventures, I've used flat stones and plates and used wooden wedges as an angle guide.  With these, you put the wedge on the stone and then lay the knife body on top of the angle wedge.

Many blades are roughly triangular in cross section, even before you get to the edge bevel.  If you measure the included angle of the BODY of the blade, you normally will find that knives vary from around 3 degrees inclusive to fairly large angles.  I just measured a Cold Steel Recon Tanto and it showed over 12 degrees inclusive. 

So, if you want to know the true edge angle, and you're using an angle guide like I'm describing, you have to take into account the angle "offset" of the body.  In particular, one half of the included angle is the offset.  For a 3 degree inclusive blade, the offset is 1.5 degrees.

With a wedge where you set the body on top of the wedge, the edge is being lifted up by the body.  So you have to add the offset to the reference angle.  For example, if you have a wedge of wood cut at 15 degrees and you put a 4 degree inclusive knife on top of it, you have to add 1/2 of 4 degrees, or 2 degrees.  15 + 2 = 17 degrees.  17 degrees is the true edge angle that will be ground in. 

Or said the other way, if you want a 15 degree edge angle and you have a 4 degree inclusive blade body, you have to account for the 2 degree offset:  15 - 2 = 13.  You need a 13 degree WEDGE in order to produce a 15 degree edge angle on a 4 degree inclusive blade body.  

Here's where it gets interesting to me.  I've been doing these calculations for years and was pretty comfortable with them.  When I got the KallyRest and later an angle cube, I planned to do these calculations to put some really low edge angles on a few blades.  I'm planning on doing a few at 12 degrees per side and 10 degrees per side.  I started to do the subtraction in the previous paragraph and something didn't seem right to me.  I thought about it and drew some pictures.  It turns out with the KallyRest (or any similar "angle table") the math is backwards!

You see, with the KR, the angle is not a wedge you are sitting on top of.  Instead it's a SPACE between the table and the abrasive.  So, when you set the blade body on the rest and it has (for example) a 4 degree included angle, you are getting CLOSER to the abrasive.  With an angle wedge the body lifts further away from the abrasive!  The tool rest is backwards from this.  You get closer to the abrasive, therefore the edge angle is DECREASED by the body of the blade.  Wow.  I know, I know, it's just basic geometry but for me it was a wow moment.

Which means that if I set the KR to 15 degrees and I put my 4 degree (inclusive) blade body on it, I'm going to be grinding in a 13 degree edge angle.  Or said the other way, if I want a 15 degree edge angle on my 4 degree blade body, I have to add the offset.  15 (edge) + 2 (offset) = 17.  I need to set the KR to 17 degrees in order to get a 15 degree edge angle on this 4 degree blade body.

One of the blades I want to take to somewhere between 9 and 11 degrees (edge angle) is a full flat ground Delica.  I've measured it's body angle at 3.7 degrees inclusive.  So to take it to 11 degrees (edge). I need to set the KR to:  11 + (3.7/2) = 12.85 degrees.  Neat.

I might make a video about this.  I'm not sure if the words I've written are clear enough to get the meaning across.  Let me know if this makes sense and/or if anyone would like to see a video about this subject.

Thanks for reading.

Brian.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=530 Wed, 04 Mar 2020 05:31:11 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=530  
One however had a wood handle.  The handle was totally dried out and starting to show small cracks.  The type of damage that occurs during the heat cycle in a dishwasher.  I didn’t think to take a picture of it because it was just another knife.  Nothing remarkable, just a wood handle knife.  It looked exactly like this one I found on ebay. 


  knife2.jpg (Size: 13.68 KB / Downloads: 11)
 
I checked it out before I sharpened it and there were a number of small chips in the edge.  The chips weren’t very big.  I didn’t think much of it and went about sharpening with my usual method using a 150 grit Cubitron and deburred with a Scotch-Brite belt.  When I was done I checked it out and the chips were still there.  Crap!
 
So I reground the edge but the chips seemed to propagate.  I couldn’t seem to grind away the little chips out of the edge.  Very frustrating.  So I reasoned that maybe the 150 grit was too coarse and switched to a used 180 grit Deer ceramic belt.  For whatever reason that worked and removed the chips.  Then I deburred as usual with the S-B belt.  The blade was nice and sharp, well deburred and no doubt not bad at all.
 
But… the 180 grit belt that I used was pretty old and no longer really 180 grit.  I imagined that that I was not giving the guy as toothy an edge as I would like.  So, I started over and reground the edge with the 150 Cubitron.  This time, for whatever reason it worked.  No chipping. 
 
I’m not sure what was happening with that blade, but I needed to get rid of the chips with a finer grit abrasive before I could grind with a 150 grit for a nice toothy edge. The steel didn’t seem particularly hard but it was prone to chipping.  Live and learn I guess.  I spent well over an hour on that knife.  When I was done the sharpness ranged from 130-170 along the edge.  Not as consistent as I would like, but plenty sharp enough and nice and toothy. 
 
But I wasn’t done yet.  It was a nice knife and it bothered me that the handle was so dry and starting to crack.  I returned all the other knives but kept that one for two days.  I gave he handle a good thick coat of a combination of mineral oil, carnauba and bee’s wax.  Then put the knife over the heat register and let it all soak in for hours, wiped it clean and repeated the process.  I did that 3 or 4 times over the two days.  When done, the handle looked really nice and was in much better condition.
 
Unless it’s for a friend I actually charge for sharpening, but have no illusions about making any money doing.  I do it for fun because I enjoy it.  I charge $2.00 for less than 5” blades and jack the price up to a whopping $2.50 for > 5” blades, not counting really long blades like machetes.  Over many years I’ve made just enough to pay for the Kally.  What more could I ask?
 
Anyway, I think the guy got a good deal for $2.50.  Hope you enjoyed the story.]]>  
One however had a wood handle.  The handle was totally dried out and starting to show small cracks.  The type of damage that occurs during the heat cycle in a dishwasher.  I didn’t think to take a picture of it because it was just another knife.  Nothing remarkable, just a wood handle knife.  It looked exactly like this one I found on ebay. 


  knife2.jpg (Size: 13.68 KB / Downloads: 11)
 
I checked it out before I sharpened it and there were a number of small chips in the edge.  The chips weren’t very big.  I didn’t think much of it and went about sharpening with my usual method using a 150 grit Cubitron and deburred with a Scotch-Brite belt.  When I was done I checked it out and the chips were still there.  Crap!
 
So I reground the edge but the chips seemed to propagate.  I couldn’t seem to grind away the little chips out of the edge.  Very frustrating.  So I reasoned that maybe the 150 grit was too coarse and switched to a used 180 grit Deer ceramic belt.  For whatever reason that worked and removed the chips.  Then I deburred as usual with the S-B belt.  The blade was nice and sharp, well deburred and no doubt not bad at all.
 
But… the 180 grit belt that I used was pretty old and no longer really 180 grit.  I imagined that that I was not giving the guy as toothy an edge as I would like.  So, I started over and reground the edge with the 150 Cubitron.  This time, for whatever reason it worked.  No chipping. 
 
I’m not sure what was happening with that blade, but I needed to get rid of the chips with a finer grit abrasive before I could grind with a 150 grit for a nice toothy edge. The steel didn’t seem particularly hard but it was prone to chipping.  Live and learn I guess.  I spent well over an hour on that knife.  When I was done the sharpness ranged from 130-170 along the edge.  Not as consistent as I would like, but plenty sharp enough and nice and toothy. 
 
But I wasn’t done yet.  It was a nice knife and it bothered me that the handle was so dry and starting to crack.  I returned all the other knives but kept that one for two days.  I gave he handle a good thick coat of a combination of mineral oil, carnauba and bee’s wax.  Then put the knife over the heat register and let it all soak in for hours, wiped it clean and repeated the process.  I did that 3 or 4 times over the two days.  When done, the handle looked really nice and was in much better condition.
 
Unless it’s for a friend I actually charge for sharpening, but have no illusions about making any money doing.  I do it for fun because I enjoy it.  I charge $2.00 for less than 5” blades and jack the price up to a whopping $2.50 for > 5” blades, not counting really long blades like machetes.  Over many years I’ve made just enough to pay for the Kally.  What more could I ask?
 
Anyway, I think the guy got a good deal for $2.50.  Hope you enjoyed the story.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=523 Thu, 06 Feb 2020 17:54:44 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=523 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=510 Thu, 05 Dec 2019 12:08:42 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=510
What is the best solution? I'm looking for it can be used on kitchen knives. 

Thank you.]]>
What is the best solution? I'm looking for it can be used on kitchen knives. 

Thank you.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=492 Mon, 19 Aug 2019 03:40:53 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=492
https:/ /www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJMphMQ3pYc

Now, I applaud the following dude for his skepticism and willingness to perform testing to verify Internet wisdom.  If he had only been an Exchange member we could have saved him from wasting his precious life minutes in the testing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vvMFOUkwC0

Life lesson:

Always believe everything you read from knife sharpening gurus on the 'Net.  And... join the Exchange. ]]>
https:/ /www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJMphMQ3pYc

Now, I applaud the following dude for his skepticism and willingness to perform testing to verify Internet wisdom.  If he had only been an Exchange member we could have saved him from wasting his precious life minutes in the testing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vvMFOUkwC0

Life lesson:

Always believe everything you read from knife sharpening gurus on the 'Net.  And... join the Exchange. ]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=483 Wed, 24 Jul 2019 04:01:59 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=483  
The blade didn’t seem super dull.  I didn’t mash the tomato but required more slicing motion and pressure than I enjoy so I was curious as to its sharpness.  I took four measurements with the PT50B from tip to heel and was befuddled and surprised by the results which were: 500, 580, 995 and 755.  It didn’t seem like it had been that long since I last sharpened that knife, but those are the numbers.  When I tested the 995 part of the blade, I thought I might have to stick a cheater pipe on the handle to get enough leverage to force it through the test media.
 
It’s a bit of a head scratcher to me that the knife performed as well as it did.  Methinks it cut as well as it did because it’s a light weight and thin blade sharpened to a fairly acute 15°.  Nonetheless, I would have thought a knife that dull would have not cut so well.
 
I sharpened the blade with a Cubitron 150 grit belt on my Kally 1SM with an adjustable knife rest.  It only took one light pass to raise a tiny burr over 80% of the edge.  I couldn’t see a burr in a couple of small sections, but after gently touching those areas again to the belt there was a fine, even, barely visible burr the length of the blade.  Doing the other side of the blade was about the same process.  About 1.5 passes per side.  It took a minute or two to complete.
 
Deburring was done using a very fine Scotch-Brite belt.  Two light passes each side.  I noticed a bit of burr remained in a couple of small sections of the edge, so I dragged my fingernail along the edge of those areas.  Most of the burr fell away like snowflakes, and a couple of quick light to touches to the belt on those areas finished the job.
 
I finished with two light passes on each side of the blade using the rough side of a Surgi-Sharp leather belt.  The belt was treated with a bit of oil a long time ago, but no secret sauce or compound.  Basically just plain leather.  The blade seemed sharp to me, so I took four readings: 165, 115, 105, 95.   Just for grins I touched each side of blade around the tip where it had measured 165 to the leather belt one more time.  This time: 110, 115, 105, 95.  Done!  Now I don’t even have to slice tomatoes.  They just cleave themselves into neat slices when they see the knife coming.
 
The 150 grit Cubitron produces a nice toothy edge.  The Scotch-Brite belt deburrs quickly and easily without smoothing the toothy edge.  The two very light pressure passes on the leather, as far as I can tell, just finishes and cleans up the edge a bit and does not burnish or smooth the edge due to the extremely light pressure used and only two passes each side. 
 
After years of experimenting with sharpening, that’s the process I currently use.  It’s very quick and easy with repeatable results.  Producing a polished edge is a bit different, but rarely do I desire a polished edge.
 
Here is a picture of the knife and the Kally setup.

Victorinox Fibrox 5" Chef's knife:

  71c5LjNKjJL._SY450_.jpg (Size: 7.67 KB / Downloads: 6)

Kally 1SM with KallyRest:

  KallyRest2.jpg (Size: 49.82 KB / Downloads: 41) ]]>  
The blade didn’t seem super dull.  I didn’t mash the tomato but required more slicing motion and pressure than I enjoy so I was curious as to its sharpness.  I took four measurements with the PT50B from tip to heel and was befuddled and surprised by the results which were: 500, 580, 995 and 755.  It didn’t seem like it had been that long since I last sharpened that knife, but those are the numbers.  When I tested the 995 part of the blade, I thought I might have to stick a cheater pipe on the handle to get enough leverage to force it through the test media.
 
It’s a bit of a head scratcher to me that the knife performed as well as it did.  Methinks it cut as well as it did because it’s a light weight and thin blade sharpened to a fairly acute 15°.  Nonetheless, I would have thought a knife that dull would have not cut so well.
 
I sharpened the blade with a Cubitron 150 grit belt on my Kally 1SM with an adjustable knife rest.  It only took one light pass to raise a tiny burr over 80% of the edge.  I couldn’t see a burr in a couple of small sections, but after gently touching those areas again to the belt there was a fine, even, barely visible burr the length of the blade.  Doing the other side of the blade was about the same process.  About 1.5 passes per side.  It took a minute or two to complete.
 
Deburring was done using a very fine Scotch-Brite belt.  Two light passes each side.  I noticed a bit of burr remained in a couple of small sections of the edge, so I dragged my fingernail along the edge of those areas.  Most of the burr fell away like snowflakes, and a couple of quick light to touches to the belt on those areas finished the job.
 
I finished with two light passes on each side of the blade using the rough side of a Surgi-Sharp leather belt.  The belt was treated with a bit of oil a long time ago, but no secret sauce or compound.  Basically just plain leather.  The blade seemed sharp to me, so I took four readings: 165, 115, 105, 95.   Just for grins I touched each side of blade around the tip where it had measured 165 to the leather belt one more time.  This time: 110, 115, 105, 95.  Done!  Now I don’t even have to slice tomatoes.  They just cleave themselves into neat slices when they see the knife coming.
 
The 150 grit Cubitron produces a nice toothy edge.  The Scotch-Brite belt deburrs quickly and easily without smoothing the toothy edge.  The two very light pressure passes on the leather, as far as I can tell, just finishes and cleans up the edge a bit and does not burnish or smooth the edge due to the extremely light pressure used and only two passes each side. 
 
After years of experimenting with sharpening, that’s the process I currently use.  It’s very quick and easy with repeatable results.  Producing a polished edge is a bit different, but rarely do I desire a polished edge.
 
Here is a picture of the knife and the Kally setup.

Victorinox Fibrox 5" Chef's knife:

  71c5LjNKjJL._SY450_.jpg (Size: 7.67 KB / Downloads: 6)

Kally 1SM with KallyRest:

  KallyRest2.jpg (Size: 49.82 KB / Downloads: 41) ]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=476 Tue, 04 Jun 2019 06:11:51 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=476
I was feeling odd and depleted because I had not sharpened anything for a while.  So I ferreted around in the kitchen drawer knife block and found two knives that didn't hang very well on my thumbnail. For all intents and purposes they were still plenty sharp, but I declared them dull enough to be in desperate need of sharpening because it made me happy.

The first knife was a Victorinox 5" chef's.  Nice little knife.  This one: https://www.swissknifeshop.com/shop/swis...ef-s-knife

After sharpening and deburring I took 3 sharpness readings from handle to tip: 100, 230, 105.  Now normally, seeing the wacky 230 number I would have at least taken another reading as most likely the wild reading was caused because I happened to measure right on a tiny bit of burr and another reading would not have been so aberrant, but I felt along the edge with my educated thumb and the whole thing felt very sharp.  Also, I only used a 150 grit Cubitron belt so of course it was nice and toothy and I knew it would do a fine job slicing onions or whatever so I declared it good enough and returned it to use.

Then I did a Calphalon 4.5" parer.  A dandy, fairly thick, heavy blade parer: https://www.amazon.com/Calphalon-Contemp...B00007IT31

After sharpening I took three readings from handle to tip: 95, 90, 65.  While I was not bothered by the strange 230 number from the last knife, I found the 65 reading most troubling.  I took another reading there at the tip and got 95.  Much better!  I declared it good enough and returned it to use.

While writing this I got the Calphalon from the drawer knife block to see exactly what it was and placed it next to the computer.  I picked it up to read the writing on the blade and clumsily bumped it into the back of the first knuckle of my index finger.  Crap!  Epidermal leakage.  I'm finishing this with a piece of Kleenex wrapped around my finger secured with Scotch tape so as not to leak all over the keyboard.  Seems to be working.

Like I said, a short story for no reason.]]>
I was feeling odd and depleted because I had not sharpened anything for a while.  So I ferreted around in the kitchen drawer knife block and found two knives that didn't hang very well on my thumbnail. For all intents and purposes they were still plenty sharp, but I declared them dull enough to be in desperate need of sharpening because it made me happy.

The first knife was a Victorinox 5" chef's.  Nice little knife.  This one: https://www.swissknifeshop.com/shop/swis...ef-s-knife

After sharpening and deburring I took 3 sharpness readings from handle to tip: 100, 230, 105.  Now normally, seeing the wacky 230 number I would have at least taken another reading as most likely the wild reading was caused because I happened to measure right on a tiny bit of burr and another reading would not have been so aberrant, but I felt along the edge with my educated thumb and the whole thing felt very sharp.  Also, I only used a 150 grit Cubitron belt so of course it was nice and toothy and I knew it would do a fine job slicing onions or whatever so I declared it good enough and returned it to use.

Then I did a Calphalon 4.5" parer.  A dandy, fairly thick, heavy blade parer: https://www.amazon.com/Calphalon-Contemp...B00007IT31

After sharpening I took three readings from handle to tip: 95, 90, 65.  While I was not bothered by the strange 230 number from the last knife, I found the 65 reading most troubling.  I took another reading there at the tip and got 95.  Much better!  I declared it good enough and returned it to use.

While writing this I got the Calphalon from the drawer knife block to see exactly what it was and placed it next to the computer.  I picked it up to read the writing on the blade and clumsily bumped it into the back of the first knuckle of my index finger.  Crap!  Epidermal leakage.  I'm finishing this with a piece of Kleenex wrapped around my finger secured with Scotch tape so as not to leak all over the keyboard.  Seems to be working.

Like I said, a short story for no reason.]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=475 Thu, 30 May 2019 12:04:37 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=475

Atoma 400 -> Atoma 600 -> Atoma 1200 -> Spyderco Fine -> Spyderco UF -> Nanocloth strop(Tormek PA-70) -> kangaroo strop(diamond emulsion 4 micron) -> kangaroo strop(diamond emulsion 0.5 micron) -> kangaroo strop(diamond emulsion 0.025 micron)

It was very sharp. But couldn't cut test media and I have to stop testing at 155 BESS. When I checked edge, it was a little collapsed.

I think there is a problem with blade steel.

  KakaoTalk_20190527_172718168.jpg (Size: 181.17 KB / Downloads: 14) ]]>

Atoma 400 -> Atoma 600 -> Atoma 1200 -> Spyderco Fine -> Spyderco UF -> Nanocloth strop(Tormek PA-70) -> kangaroo strop(diamond emulsion 4 micron) -> kangaroo strop(diamond emulsion 0.5 micron) -> kangaroo strop(diamond emulsion 0.025 micron)

It was very sharp. But couldn't cut test media and I have to stop testing at 155 BESS. When I checked edge, it was a little collapsed.

I think there is a problem with blade steel.

  KakaoTalk_20190527_172718168.jpg (Size: 181.17 KB / Downloads: 14) ]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=470 Sun, 14 Apr 2019 07:44:30 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=470
  Too1.png (Size: 1.5 MB / Downloads: 33)

  Too2.png (Size: 908.93 KB / Downloads: 30)

Method: Atoma 140 grit(Edge trail) >>> Leather stropping(PA-70)

Sharpness: 105, 155, 85(The average is 115 BESS)

Can you see the "LOW"?]]>
  Too1.png (Size: 1.5 MB / Downloads: 33)

  Too2.png (Size: 908.93 KB / Downloads: 30)

Method: Atoma 140 grit(Edge trail) >>> Leather stropping(PA-70)

Sharpness: 105, 155, 85(The average is 115 BESS)

Can you see the "LOW"?]]> http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=464 Tue, 19 Mar 2019 15:52:21 +0000 http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=464 Tormek to achieve super sharp edges. Congrats to KG!

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3917.0


Sharpening to 41 Bess:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BGOT3oJ...e=youtu.be

Attention to Detail:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDPXqAK9Xr0]]> Tormek to achieve super sharp edges. Congrats to KG!

https://www.tormek.com/forum/index.php?topic=3917.0


Sharpening to 41 Bess:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BGOT3oJ...e=youtu.be

Attention to Detail:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDPXqAK9Xr0]]>