Burr removal - Least agressive compound that still works?

[grepper]

I suppose this question is mostly for Mr. Mark because I know you have a lot of experience with compounds, but anyone who has an opinion please chime in!
 
I’m looking for the least aggressive honing compound to aid in burr removal.  I love toothy edges and don’t want to smooth them trying to remove burr, but I’ve found, at least I think, that a bit of compound seems to expedite burr removal using the rough side of a leather belt.
 
I currently use Tormek honing compound, supposedly 1 – 3 micron, AO.  It actually seems to help, but I’ve noticed some edge smoothing.  Not much, but some.
 
I could care less about a polished bevel, I just want to remove burr as quickly as possible without edge smoothing.  Hence my search for a less aggressive honing compound that still works.  Maybe I'm asking the impossible!
 
From your experience, what is the finest, least aggressive compound that seems to aid in burr removal?

[Rupert Lucius]

A knife maker using 10X magnification said that the cotton buff (loose sewn) straightened the burr - did not remove the burr.

I, believe there is merit within that magic buff and am going to continue down that road until someone reveals THE compound or METHOD that works.

There are many rabbit holes.  Makes sharpening a challenge for all sharpeners.

[grepper]

I have seen edges with an obvious burr that still measure as very sharp. It even feels very sharp with the various touch tests because the burr is both sharp and also gnarly so it grabs nicely at skin.

Because it’s a thin foil edge, a burr can indeed be very sharp. The problem is that it’s not sturdy and will mash down and roll covering the true edge under the burr.

I’ve had edges that measured 10g – 30g less sharp after the burr was removed. Even though it’s slightly less sharp, it’s a better edge than if the burr was not removed.

I tend to agree with the knife maker using his 10X magnification who said that the magic buff straightened the burr, but did not remove it. No doubt the knife could be very sharp, but probably some burr remained.

At least that’s what I saw when I tried it. My magic buff wheel didn’t pan out for me. Of course your results may be different. I only tried it a couple of times on one knife, so what I’m going on is not at all extensive or conclusive. It’s just what I saw the couple of times I played with it.

[pjwoolw]

The media varies and is dependent on the tool. Be it wheel, belt, hone or strop there is no magic bullet. Only quality products used specifically with a given tool. So what tool is it your using?

[grepper]

But... I want there to be a magic bullet.

I'm using a Kally 1SM and the rough side of a Surgi-Sharp leather belt.

[pjwoolw]

On the smooth side the leather belt I use 4 and 2 micron CBN emulsion from Ken Schwartz. Mostly the 4 micron. This is on knives only. Other stuff like garden tools and axes I use whatever white / gold compound is handy on a felt belt to finish. I haven't used the rough side of the leather belt for years.

[Mark Reich]

Hi Mr. Grepper, sorry for my absence. I've been on the road since I left for the Blade Show, with a circuitous but very successful return trip!

As usual, Mr. Pete has given much good information. I agree that fine CBN is non-aggressive, and great for burr removal.

I haven't used the rough side of a belt in ages either. It just never seemed to work as well, and it takes way too much compound.

The least aggressive compound I use is 1u boron carbide. I use it specifically to deburr soft stainless, which it does like magic.  

You are going to find that compounds work much differently on powered equipment than on hones. That's why I spoke of using no pressure and/or stropping on a stationary belt or hone. That's where the most aggressive compounds shine.

During my recent trip, I got to spend some time with Mr. and Mrs. Rupert Lucious. I'm not fond of the southern weather, but I can put up with anything to spend time with them. Of course Mr. Rupert got one of the hones I recently sent out, and we made a poignant discovery with it.

As we were having lunch, I grabbed a few regular paper wrapped drinking straws. Mrs. Lucious is well used to sharp knives, of course. She spent a few minutes reading the edge on my pocket knife. The S35VN blade wasn't very sharp by her standards. It could slice through the paper sheath ok, but it didn't want to bite into the plastic straw without a little effort.

When we got back to the house, we got out the hone I'd sent Mr. Rupert. First we looked at the surface of the hone with one of the AWESOME 10x magnifiers Mr. Rupert has recently discovered. (I can't imagine a better magnifier for the money!) 

I could easily see that Mr. Rupert had spent a good bit of time in the driver's seat. The diamonds weren't easy to see due to significant loading and low magnification, but we could still see some diamonds sparkling, which relieved much of my concern that all the diamonds had fallen off during shipping.

There's good reason for the popularity of S35VN . It's pretty hard and very wear resistant with it's high concentration of vanadium carbides. I gave the blade a measly half dozen strokes per side, just to see how much, if any difference that would make, and handed the knife to Mrs. Lucious. I did not want to sway her judgement in the least. She spent the same amount of time retesting the blade.

Surprise! The blade easily bit through the paper and the plastic straw! The difference was remarkable. The blade really didn't feel sharper, and it didn't shave arm hair any better, but I could hardly ask for better performance than 16u (1,000 grit) poly diamond on a leather hone.

JMHO, but that's why I've been using coarse poly diamond instead of finer compounds. I'm sure I could remove any burr with fine CBN on a belt, then give it some tooth and maintain the edge on a hone.

YMMV

[Ken S]

Fascinating posts, guys. Keep up the good work.

Ken